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The local porter
They will carry above 100 kilos
But who work
Who is working with the tourist
Is not allowed
To carry above 25 kilos
Normally the normal porter will get
The salary in the trekking
It's 1500 to 2000
Okay, so let's say, 1500
That's $15
dollars a day
$15 dollars a day, ya
When you reach Lukla
You just arrange that day also, right?
But most of the Porter
They don't go from the Kathmandu
No, no, they don't
they do multiple trips in a row
Ya
They have a Lukla base
They do Lukla to Lukla
Each trek
The tips and the allowance are very compulsory
Tourists giving them at the end
So they get tips too
Absoutely. Not tips is here. Tips is extra
Sometimes they getting the tips like more than
$200, $300, $400 dollars also
From our company tips is compulsory
That is the just salary
O.k. That's, that's pretty good
That's good news
And then
No showers the whole 12 days
There is no shower
In the porter house, no
Just one shirt, one fleece, and one jacket
Just one up top
I'll be so smelly
Porter don't drink Coca Cola
What you do then?
Why not?
Yea they do
They do but
Americans we need Coke
They take
500 rupees per one Coca Cola
Wow, that's expensive
-I ain't dirnking coke -That's why porter, they don't
Porter drink water
I'm gunna only drink water
This is my last coke
You want to drink normal water
Or water with the purification tablets?
-What you like? -I don't know
What do porters drink?
Porter they can
They can drink it straight from the tap
Ya, I'm gunna do that
-You do that? -Ya
Fuck it
-Screw it -You know that the
Most of the Nepalese
We will drink directly
From tap
We'll go from the tap
-If I get sick, then -What will you do?
Then, I'll
Keep going
We'll be alright
-Yes? -Just vegetables
It's the first meal here
I'm already struggling
I'm struggling
It's not even spicy and I'm crying
I don't even really know how to eat it
You have to
Squish it together
And you eat with your right hand because
You wipe your butt with your left
So you don't eat with your left hand
You shake hands
With your right hand
Not your left
It's an insult
It's going to be a long month
A very long month
Alright
Welcome
Is there a shortcut?
There's a shortcut here
There's another shortcut?
Ya, there's a shortcut
Where?
From over there
-From over here? -Ya
I will show you
Let's go together
Can I sit here?
Yes, yes
Cooking tea?
Yes, boiling it
Is this new milk?
-New, new -It's new milk?
I milked it this morning
It's from this morning?
-Ya, from that cow -Which one?
That one
-But there's three -Ya, there's three
But the others are in my house
Sit
Come sit, come sit
Thank you brother
(Dialect)
Here, sit
Friends are here
Is that your house there?
-Yes -Is it a Hotel?
Sorry?
Is it a hotel?
No, it's not a hotel
But you said that you have a hotel
Now we're making it
Now, you're making it?
Nice
Where?
The first one was destroyed
In the earthquake
And now we're building a new one
But we don't have toilets yet
So you have to go far
But this path
Compared to the other path
This path is better
This way is our path to Thodung
I'll see
Oh, it's a western toilet
-It's a western toilet -Yes, yes
-There's no Nepali toilet? -There is. There's a Nepali toilet
-Where? -It's out back
I only use Nepali toilets
In America, I'm short
You're 7 inches taller than me
Seven inches taller
How tall are you?
I'm 63
That's not the same
Come here, come here
It's not...it's the same
-Oh my... -7 Inches
We're American
I'm American
I'm sorry
In order to be a
Civilized human
We should not neglect our life, our partner
And our relationships
We must do that our entire life...
I'll give that a "Like"
It's a Sherpa song
It's a Sherpa song?
So much Tukpa
Because you want Porter food, yes?
This is porter food
I'm working in the hostel down there
A hostel for the villagers
Helping them, like teaching English
Grammars
Something that I know
So how many people in this room
Like three, four
-Three, four? -Ya, ya
It looks like, one, two, three. It looks like five, six
Ya
One, two, three, four, five. Ya five
-Five, six -Ya
That's crazy
We are like the first generation Sherpa to get education
Everybody started as a porter
And then you go
Assistant guide
And then guide
In Everest like Climbing Sherpas
They say Climbing Sherpas but
Cimbing Sherpas are the porters
Sherpas are the porters on Everest
Tea, tea, tea
Sugar, sugar, sugar
Sugar, sugar, sugar, sugar
-Sugar -Please, take it, take it, take it
Should I sit there?
She is Babu's mom
-Big sister? -Mother! I'm his mother
-And you? -I'm his dad
At first, he worked as a porter
Carrying bags
And
While he was portering
He used to work a lot with foreigners
So he'd get a lot of work
And that's how he got into the mountains
Working as a climber
But then...
There was a hole on top
And it was covered with snow
So he couldn't see it
He stepped on it
His leg got stuck
He died
Did you carry loads too?
What do you mean?
Right now he carries loads
Did you ever work as a porter, he means
Eh, one time...
I portered for {Edmund} Hilary's expedition
In the
In the Everest Region
-You did? -Yes
I carried Hillary's bag
He brought his house from his country
A full house from Australia in pieces
And
It all came apart
So
Every window by bag
Every door by bag
Every slab by bag
Even the roof we packed by bag
And we carried it all the way up there
You know you've made it to Lukla
When you see Baskin Robbins
Now
The real work begins
Let's see if my training paid off
Tomorrow
We buy my namlo
Clean my clothes
And the day after that
Which I have no idea what actual day it is
We go back out into the
Into the world
As an official porter
Why use soap?
It will just smell bad again after this
I'm Nate
-Hello -Hello
-My name is Sukra -Sukra? Sukra. And yours?
I'm Sanjai
But you'll leave with someone else tomorrow
-But you're a porter, right? -Yup
-Alright, let's go. Let's go -Ok
-Ready? -Yup
-Today... -The other porter is coming from his village
He arrives today
My namlo
I need to buy it
You can buy a namlo
-Here? In Lukla? -Here they have them
-Could you teach me? -Ya, ya
Don't worry
-O.k. -We'll teach you
My name is Sukra Tamang
I'm 30 years old
I live in Solukhumbu
My family lives in Kathmandu
I have...
Been a porter for 8 years
-You can buy a namlo here -Here? Okay
Which namlo should I buy? I'm a big guy
A big guy should have a longer namlo
This one?
Yup
One then
Are you guys Sherpa?
No, we're Tamang. He's a Sherpa
-Sherpa? Are you also Sherpa? -Tamang
Ok. Ok.
Awesome
How long is your clients' trek?
Our expedition is, how many? 11 days
11
Base Camp?
Just Base Camp
Is it hard?
Why do you want to do this?
Because
I...
I want to explore Nepali life
Our pay per day isn't great
Payment starts when trekking starts
And lasts until the end of trekking
Nothing on the other days
Power cuts?
Ya
Power cuts today
It's Saturday, right?
This afternoon
What time? Around 5pm?
Ya that's it
But now it's 10, 11?
It's 11am?
It's 11am
On the last day
For 100 kilos
That'd be six bags
Tied as one
Six bags?
One hour would be hard
Just one hour?
From Phakding to here?
Phakding to here, no
From here to their hotel
We'll see
From Phakding to here, I'll try
From Phakding to here, you can't
-I can't? -It's too hard
We'll see, we'll see -O.k.
Pretty pumped
Pretty nervous too for tomorrow as well
I gotta carry other people's stuff
It's gunna be cold. I don't really have clothes
But I'm just complaining
I signed up for this
-How are you? -Good
I'm only going to speak in Nepali
Ok?
I'm a big person
A very big person
You should be able to lift a lot
A lot
100 kilos
I'll carry 100 kilos our last day
My name is Jiban Tamang
I'm 35 years old now
I live in...
Solukhumbu Lodhim VDC Ward #6
And my family stays in the village
In the season, I come here
In the off-season, I work in the field
As a farmer
I've been a porter for
How long is it now?
12 or 13 years
I've been portering
You eating breakfast?
These three guys
Going with us as a porter
-Say hello -Namaste
He is the
Nate
-From America -Ma Nate ho
No rush
You just take your time
If you want to stop
Just let me know
Right?
Just take it easy
Wrap all of it
Like this
You bring it this way
Then do this
To make it shorter, do this
To make it longer, loosen it
Oh my god
Lift it
Lift it!
Good?
Make the namlo shorter or is it ok?
-I think, it's ok -It's ok? Take it
This...
-Alright, alright! -Alright?
I'll get the door for you
11 days, can you do it?
Go like this
It won't move
I can't
It's hard
It's not hard!
It's...
It's easy
Slowly, slowly!
-Did we arrive? -We arrived
Finished
Damn
That sucks
This one?
Put it inside
-Hello -Hello
All good?
All good
All goood
You first
Where we staying? Here?
Here we're staying
-Tonight, we stay... -Here
I don't have my tooth brush
No brush?
Alright, shall we?
Wash your feet here
Water's over here
-Water's over there? -Yes
You going too?
I already washed mine
-Wash your feet here -Here?
Now, we sleep
Good night
This isn't fair
The youngest always sleeps alone
Tomorrow, I'm sleeping with another person
-O.k. Tomorrow you can -WIth a wife you could sleep with two people
Okay
He's going to find a wife quickly
I want a wife
He wants a wife
Good?
It's easy
It's easy today
Only 7 hours
-We eat breakfast here -Here?
-Yea
Mine is terrible
You made it?
-Not eating breakfast? -This is my breakfast
-That's your breakfast? -Yea
Small
We're eating Tukpa. You want Tukpa?
Let's eat Tukpa
You drinking alcohol?
Now?
You're drinking alcohol now?
How?
-For energy. It gives me energy. -Energy?
That's not energy
Porter life is extremely hard
Because
The salary is so small
That you can't eat enough
Just 1500 rupees a day
And with that you can't eat enough food
So what to do?
Tips come on the last day
If they don't give tips, then we work for free
Yea, uh...
I don't get to sleep here
You see that little shed down there?
That's where I sleep
It is always very difficult for porters to find a place to sleep
Because, porters, they are
They're treated differently by others
It used to be much worse
Because at first
They wouldn't even give us a cup of tea
The hostels and other places
They would tell porters
Go, go, go
Get outside
I'm gunna ride this up
It will hit you off
And then you're dead
How many kilos is yours?
-This is 100 kilos -100?
In 5 days, well do it
Try it now
No, no
Later
Last
Our last day
Why not?
Because I'll die
Why would you die?
Because...
Because of this
Can't carry your load?
You wouldn't die, you're huge
I'm big but I'm not Nepali
I'm not strong
For food for 11 days
We spend $90 to $100
So what then?
$13 for an 11 day trek
That's $143
So we only save $43
And that all goes to home and farming
So it's too much work
How much money will you demand?
How much tip?
I won't demand
Why?
It's not respectful
They'll give it to us
I won't demand it
Only we can ask
They'll give it to us
They won't give it to white people
They probably won't
But they'll give it to us
Tips are necessary for us
Some give $20, some give $5, some give $10
The generous might give $200
But other just 500 Rupees
That would be like
Getting nothing
Here?
Put your bag there
We're sleeping here
Here?
Awesome...
A lot of people will be here
Good
Toilet's out there
Toilet?
I'm not going poop
I'll "hold it in"
Every year, we work about 20 groups
In the October and Spring season
We rest two or three days, then we work again
But
There is not always work
There are other porters
And we have to wait our turn
In all
We work about five to six months
And six, we work at home
How old are you?
24
24?
You
Me?
I'm uh...
Too old
How long have you been portering?
Portering
I've been portering 20 years
20 years?
I'm 40 years old
20 years?
Oh my God...
This is my first week
And it's enough
Yea?
It's so...
...hard
In five months
If we get good groups
We make about $1,000
If we get bad groups then
Just $500 or $400
-In 5 months? -Yes
And in the other months?
In the other months
We have to work extra
As a farmer
Always as a farmer
This...
I'll bring these to base camp
And then I'll come back
But
Today is your off day, isn't it?
You're crazy
For the money
A lot of money because this will hurt
Ok
Fun...
We porters can have
A little hanging with friends
And chatting in bed
We can enjoy a bit
That's how...
We can be happy, as Porters
We'll win, we'll win
-Oh you won -You win
Goodbye
Put this one there
Now throw it in
-We actually won? -Yup
Money
You won
We won?!
-Cheers -Cheers
Hit it, hit it, hit it!
-Hit it! -Cheers!
It's a tea party!
So we're here on day
I don't know what day it is, but
We're getting acclimatized
Used to the routine
I always take out
Backup socks
Because
I'm allowed to have two pairs of socks
My one's for hiking
My other's for doing this
Otherwise
You know, now it's a mental game
It's a mental game
Can we last mentally
Probably
We have to
Comfortable
Tomorrow, 7:30?
7:30 wake up?
We're up at 7h
We're here sleeping in the
Porter House
I refuse to take two blankets
Because
In the season you only get one blanket
So I'm going to sleep with one blanket
And my socks
And that's it
We're just here sleeping
On the floor with the boys
With the boys here
Got the boys here, got the boys here
It's nice
Alright, we'll talk back to you later
So...
Today we're bumping up to 40
Kilos
I'm not going to lie, I feel terrible
My heads already pounding
And I don't know why
But we're going to act like we're feeling great
But today's gunna suck
Porter doesn't want to be a porter forever
So what does he want?
He too wishes to improve his life
He also has ambition
And he also struggles very much
If the clients get sick
Then Porter has to carry them
But Porters are people too
Picking up bags, resting and sleeping isn't all we do
I'd love for my kid
To send him to school
To become a doctor
To become an engineer
But...
We're too poor
In Nepal, when it's cold we eat this
In Nepal...
When it's cold
You eat Ketchup?
Yup, we eat Ketchup
It warms you up
But it's not cold
It's not cold
I promise you one day up here is cold
This salt is also very useful
Very
If you're thirsty, then drink it with hot water
-You start -Ya, you start
No, you start
"Resham"
"Resham Piripi?"
Fi-ri-ri
-"Resham Firiri" -"Resham"
All together
"Resham"
"Fir-ri-ri"
"Resha-"
Come on
All together!
"Resham Firiri"
I am a donkey
You are a monkey
I don't know
I'm sleeping
We're going to try to fit three on top of this bunk bed
Where should I sleep?
-Up here -On the ground?
No, no
Up there
Where are you sleeping?
-I'll sleep in the dining room. You'll sleep here -No, no, no
Why?
There's already eight people here
Somebody will fall off
-Three people will fit -No they won't
-Why? -It's weak
We'll fit
Let's go, let's go, let's go
Here, I'll sleep here
This is strong
I'll sleep here
Alright
Let's go
Goodnight
Hopefully, we don't break this bed
And fall through and die
Or kill them
Or freeze to death
We'll see
Thanks "Big Sister" for us
That's "big sister"
Alright, we'll see ya
It's the morning of our
Eight, night, tenth
Ninth day
So it's the first day we're heading back
Down the mountains
And, uh...
I'm really looking forward to getting out of here
Last night
At one point, I didn't even have a blanket
So, ya
It wasn't warm
I'm just ready
I'm ready to go home
Ready to
Go home
Last trip, one guy way up there
In Ampu Lapcha
Pass
He fell really ill
And his group kept going
So he had to return alone
But his leg was badly hurt
If there weren't any others
Then he'd be left alone
And then what?
He'd die
Who will help? No one
It could happen to us too
Meat! Meat at your head
We eat that tonight
In two days
You'll lift 100 kilos
I'll lift 100 kilos
From Phakding
From Phakding to Lukla
The foreigners will give us our tips
Two nights from now
We hope that
They will give us a lot
But we do not know
How much they will give
-What? -The meat and rice song
Meat and rice
-Meat and rice song -The meat and rice song?
The meat and rice song?
All three of yours?
Yup
-You too -I don't sing
No, no, no, we...
We need a woman's voice
Ready?
Meat and rice
Please give us big sister
We will eat it
We're hungry
Big sister together we can...
I taught him a song
Really? It's terrible
He sings so well
You don't like it
I don't like it
O.k. O.k.
I'll try again
Big sister...
We can eat dhal bhat together
Every single night
Here in Pheriche
What did he say?
That...
-You didn't understand? -In Pheriche we can eat dhal bhat together
We together
I'll eat seperately
-I don't share meals -You won't eat?
I won't eat
You eat meat and rice?
Don't eat it
-You eat tukpa? -Don't eat it
-What do you eat? -I don't eat anything
Then every night we can not eat together
Yea?
No
It's hard
-Life is hard -Life is hard
Life is hard
Today's my last day
One thing
I hate downhill
Two
I'm happy it's my last day
Well...
When I first started, I...
From Lukla to Namche
I carried two 50 kilo bags of cement
-100 kilos -100 kilos for...
I carried that for 5 months
That's 100 kilos
That's enough
-It's enough? -It's enough
-It's 100? -Yup, it's 100
Oh my god
Let's work
Very good
Well, let's see, let's see
Very good
Strong
I don't know if I can do it
You're a strong man
Maybe ten
Ten feet later I'll die
Alright. Let's go?
Oh my God
Let's go
This is 100 kilos
We can carry the rest now
I'm doing it all
Do not go on
I'm going slowly, but
I'll finish it
Lift it, lift it! That won't work
Lukla, Lukla
You arrived in Lukla. Let's go!
I can't do it
One minute
I'm going to rest
Here, I'm resting
Well done sir
Bring it home
Where is it?
Keep going. Keep going straight mate
How far?
How far!
Bout
Ten meters
And then you turn right
Here?
There, there!
Here
There?
Not inside, not inside
Slowly now
Thank you. Thank you
Thank you
I think we got your bag
You made it
I think we got your bag
Give me a moment
We're here baby
Nice work
Well done
Well done sir
Oh baby
No chance I'm eating dhal bhat tonight
Zero percent chance
I'm eating pizza
And cheeseburgers
How are you guys doing?
-Good, good -Happy?
Ya
Very happy
Very happy you carried my bag
Without Porters
This whole trekking area wouldn't work
It just wouldn't work
Tourists can't carry loads
Guides won't carry loads
Without Porter, there's nothing
This is our meat and rice song