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- [Narrator] Welcome to the 14th Annual

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Downloaded from
YTS.MX

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Reel Rock Film Tour.

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(gentle guitar music)

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Presented by The North Face.

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Official YIFY movies site:
YTS.MX

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Since 1966 we have viewed
walls not as obstacles

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but as opportunities.

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From the big walls of Yosemite

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to the high peaks of the Himalayas.

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We were searching for a
personal kind of freedom.

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In this pursuit we found a community

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strengthened by different stories,

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experiences, and perspectives.

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This community has shown us
that the only way forward,

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is together.

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Walls are meant for climbing.

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- [Climber] Okay, ready?

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Go.

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- History begins.

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- [Rock Climber Voiceover]
You need to improvise.

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- [Man] Just figure it out.

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- [Nina] I know that I can do it,

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it's like, game on.

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(screams)

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- No gear, no falls!

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- [Narrator] Reel Rock 14 is also brought

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to you by Black Diamond.

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We design and manufacture the most

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innovative mountain
equipment in the world.

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Live, climb, repeat, Black Diamond.

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Yeti, in the van, in
the dirt, on the trail,

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wherever you climb, Yeti
is built for the wild.

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(upbeat music)

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Trublue Auto Belay, from
the start of your journey

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to the goals you dream of reaching.

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Most tested, most trusted, most true.

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Reel Rock is also proud to partner with

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The American Alpine Club.

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Love to climb?

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Join the club.

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And Access Fund, protecting
Americas climbing.

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(upbeat music)

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And now get ready for new films.

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The High Road, United States of Joe's.

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(screams in pain)

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And our feature presentation,

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- Falling.

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The Nose speed record.

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- [Male Rock Climber
Voiceover] This has gotta be

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the coolest racetrack in the world.

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- 16 minutes faster.

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- [Narrator] It's time for Reel Rock 14.

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(sounds of brushing teeth)

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(zipper zipping)

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(upbeat guitar music)

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- We're out here in Roy, New Mexico.

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A really big sandstone bouldering
area, very remote feeling.

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It's definitely flown under the
radar for the past few years

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which is pretty nice.

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There's a good chance that
you'll be the only ones out here.

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- Nina and I have a
really good relationship,

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we go out climbing a lot,
She's super motivated.

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- [Interviewer] Who climbs
harder on the boulders?

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- Oh Nina climbs way
harder on the boulders.

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- Come on James.

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(James grunting)

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- Holy shit.

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Sometimes she can warm up on my project.

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- This is so fun.

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- [James] Nice, come on Nina.

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- So cool, yay!

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When I go out climbing, I'm
not necessarily looking for

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the hardest grade, I'm
really driven by aesthetics.

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- Nice, good, come on.

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- I wanna look for the
most beautiful lines.

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- That's good, I got you, come on.

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- The ones that make me
react in this visceral way.

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And it just so happens
to be the tall ones.

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- Nina likes climbing taller problems

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which can be a little
nerve wracking sometimes.

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(James speaking faintly)

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- Oh my God, that was kind of exciting.

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- Yeah?

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- I'll see a line and it'll
be this really cool big thing

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and I'll think, do I actually
wanna climb this thing?

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Is it worth it for me?

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And if it is, next step is
to check it out on the rope.

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Whoop.

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Make sure I know what the holds are

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and what my beta is like.

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It's about dealing with
the fear on a rope,

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really immersing myself in it.

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So in the real moment of climbing it,

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I can feel that fear still
rise up on an instinctual level

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but just be able to manage it a lot better

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and be like okay, I feel this
fear, I hear it, I sense it,

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but I don't have to listen to it.

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(electronic music)

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(upbeat music)

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(deep breathing)

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- [James] Good job.

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- Ye!

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- [James] It's easy to
be inspired by Nina.

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She's always looking to push it harder.

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Looking for the next big thing.

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- For the past couple years

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I had this seemingly far away goal

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to climb this beautiful boulder
called Too Big To Flail.

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(dramatic music)

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It's in the Buttermilks
which is world renowned

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for very, very, big boulders.

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(dramatic piano music)

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It's probably around 50 feet or so.

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You walk up to the base, you look at it,

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and your eyes just keep going up.

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(slow dramatic music)

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You think, oh my gosh, it's just sheer.

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(slow dramatic music)

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I first heard about Too Big To Flail

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watching Alex Honnold climb
it in one of the Reel Rocks

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way back in the day.

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- I wrapped down it and
tried all the moves.

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Oh shit.

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And just thinking about doing it,

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I was like this is terrifying.

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Shit.

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- [Rock Climber Spotter] You okay?

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- [Alex] Yup.

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- Seeing Alex on that climb,
my heart was in my throat.

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How can he do that?

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That's just totally nuts.

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Never did I think, oh maybe
I could do that one day.

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- [Colette] When Nina
started coming on the scene,

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2010, 2011, she was just
one of those young guns

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coming up quick.

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(upbeat music)

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- [James] Solid.

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- [Colette] Yeah.

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Doing double digit grades
just kind of effortlessly.

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- [James] Come on.

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- [Nina] I really like
doing these hard problems.

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- [James] Nice one.

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- Yes, it feels so good.

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But I realized, I wanna
expand a little bit,

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push myself mentally.

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My first highball was probably

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this super overhanging
V10 in Massachusetts

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called Speed of Life.

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It's got a terrible landing,
you have to like jump off

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to the ledge behind or you
fall down this big chute.

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I tried for a couple years
and I fell so many times.

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It really honed my sense of falling.

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- [James] Nice, get in there.

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(Nina screaming happily)

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- That gave me confidence
to try these climbs

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that were taller.

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I tried Evilution Direct.

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- [James] Come on Nina!

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- [Nina] I'm at the lip and
I've got this heel hook.

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- [James] Yeah, come on.

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- [Nina] And I remember everything
happening in slow motion.

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Just like, no.

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I saw my knee coming up
straight towards my face.

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(slow motion grunting)

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But at the last second I
moved my knee out of the way

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so I was totally fine.

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I realized in know how to fall well.

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I could orientate myself in
space and control my landing.

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I just took a few minutes
and did it next go.

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Done!

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- [James] Nice Nina!

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(upbeat music)

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- [Colette] Go Nina!

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(group cheering and clapping)

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- [Nina] I started to seek
out these massive boulders.

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(slow upbeat music)

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Building my mental strength
in a step-by-step manner.

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Anyone can do it, it just takes practice.

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(Nina screaming)

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- [Colette] In the last five years

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Nina's been going through a
process, doing all the steps.

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- Yes!

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- To get to the level she's at.

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But I also think it just takes
a certain kind of mentality.

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Maybe Nina just has that gene

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that makes her a little less fearful.

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- Oh my God.

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- [Colette] She has this
ability to access the risk,

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keep a calm mind, and just go for it.

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- [James] Oh yeah, come on.

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Oh yeah, come on.

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Yeah!

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- [Colette] Woo!

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Yeah!

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Two years ago she really took
another step up with Ambrosia.

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- [Nina] Sup dude?

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- I was there with her filming it

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and it was kind of terrifying.

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- [Nina] On a boulder like
Ambrosia it's full commitment.

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When you're that high
up, there's no falling.

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- [Colette] You just
kinda hold your breath

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and just trust that she
wouldn't put herself

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in that position unless
she was 100% confident

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that she could do it.

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(slow dramatic music)

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- [Nina] When I did
Ambrosia it was perfect.

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I had no fear, I wasn't
thinking about anything.

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I just let my body climb.

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Yes!

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- [James] So good!

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- [Nina] Yes!

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I got to the top and I felt ecstatic.

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It felt like a religious experience.

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Yay!

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- [James] That's so awesome, yeah!

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- [Colette] So sick dude!

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- [Nina] James was there

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and he definitely had the poker face.

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- I'm glad you didn't fall.

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- Me too.

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He looked calm and collected
but I know underneath

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he was shaking like a leaf.

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- [Colette] Were you nervous?

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- Yeah, I kinda wanted to puke.

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(Colette laughs)

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I mean no, no, not nervous at all.

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- [Colette] James understands
the consequences of falling.

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When he was younger he was
free soloing, took a huge fall,

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and put himself in the hospital.

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- I was climbing in
Joshua Tree National Park.

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The way backing up,
this really cool crack,

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and I was about 10 feet from the summit.

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I felt myself barn door a little

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and then I fell and I fell
70 feet and hit this ledge.

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I spent 81 days in the hospital
and had eight surgeries.

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It took me about a year to
go from prone on my back

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to climbing again.

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Seeing Nina do a lot of these highballs,

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I understand what compels her

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but I never want her to
have an accident like that.

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(peaceful music)

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When she first told me she wanted to do

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Too Big To Flail I wasn't
exactly enthusiastic.

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It's just more dangerous.

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But you don't wanna
discourage your partner

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from their goals.

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It's important just to be supportive.

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Gonna pre-make the coffee, yeah.

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- That's a keeper right there (laughs).

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- If she's gonna do something like this

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you can't project your own fears to much.

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(dramatic music)

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- I'm not sure if I would
call Too Big To Flail

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the next logical step.

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I don't know if any of this
is even logical to begin with.

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- Okay, you're on belay.

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- [Nina] The process began.

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Top rope in, check out the moves.

260
00:14:12,315 --> 00:14:16,777
It's slabby, it's insecure,
and it's really reachy.

261
00:14:18,750 --> 00:14:22,580
I had seen Honnold on tip-toes
reaching between his holds

262
00:14:22,580 --> 00:14:25,148
so I knew that I had
to do it in my own way.

263
00:14:25,148 --> 00:14:26,308
- Is the foothold good?

264
00:14:26,308 --> 00:14:27,424
- No.

265
00:14:27,424 --> 00:14:28,674
- [James] Fuck.

266
00:14:32,150 --> 00:14:34,110
- [Nina] A couple of people have fallen

267
00:14:34,110 --> 00:14:35,563
off of this middle section.

268
00:14:36,480 --> 00:14:39,073
This guy Nick took a ground fall.

269
00:14:40,506 --> 00:14:41,339
- Fuck!

270
00:14:41,339 --> 00:14:42,860
- [Nina] Another climber had to jump off

271
00:14:42,860 --> 00:14:44,740
and fractured his ankle

272
00:14:45,940 --> 00:14:49,283
but no one's fallen off the top crux's.

273
00:14:52,380 --> 00:14:53,213
God damn.

274
00:14:55,200 --> 00:14:57,770
- [James] Nina figured out the crux moves

275
00:15:00,293 --> 00:15:03,757
and then on the top
section she jumps her feet.

276
00:15:12,100 --> 00:15:15,193
Jumping, 45 feet off the
ground without a rope.

277
00:15:16,720 --> 00:15:21,720
That's not ideal but she was
very methodical about it.

278
00:15:24,111 --> 00:15:26,870
(piano music)

279
00:15:26,870 --> 00:15:29,970
- [Nina] I worked the climb so many times

280
00:15:31,700 --> 00:15:33,850
just getting it down
to a point where I know

281
00:15:33,850 --> 00:15:37,350
that I have the physical
capability to crimp on these holds

282
00:15:37,350 --> 00:15:40,481
and to place my feet and
then to keep moving upwards

283
00:15:40,481 --> 00:15:44,150
because when I don't have a
rope, I won't have a choice,

284
00:15:44,150 --> 00:15:45,963
there's no backing off.

285
00:15:46,835 --> 00:15:49,585
(peaceful music)

286
00:15:51,900 --> 00:15:56,900
I just wanna reach this
state of action of my body

287
00:15:57,020 --> 00:15:59,371
and tranquility in my mind.

288
00:15:59,371 --> 00:16:02,288
(slow piano music)

289
00:16:05,020 --> 00:16:06,710
- [James] Today's the day.

290
00:16:06,710 --> 00:16:08,006
She's going for it.

291
00:16:08,006 --> 00:16:10,923
(slow piano music)

292
00:16:11,792 --> 00:16:15,897
I got the pads up but
this thing's 50 feet tall

293
00:16:15,897 --> 00:16:19,543
there's not a whole lot
we can do to spot her.

294
00:16:21,620 --> 00:16:24,810
I mean, she's up there by herself.

295
00:16:24,810 --> 00:16:27,977
(slow dramatic music)

296
00:16:29,570 --> 00:16:31,873
(Nina deep breathing)

297
00:16:31,873 --> 00:16:35,123
(eerie dramatic music)

298
00:16:57,673 --> 00:17:00,340
(Nina grunting)

299
00:18:03,604 --> 00:18:06,937
(upbeat dramatic music)

300
00:19:23,770 --> 00:19:28,280
- Being in tall places,
I love that feeling

301
00:19:28,280 --> 00:19:32,080
of absolute certainty and
control and confidence

302
00:19:32,080 --> 00:19:35,290
in a situation that
seems totally dangerous.

303
00:19:35,290 --> 00:19:37,080
I'm so psyched!

304
00:19:37,080 --> 00:19:40,817
But I can say with
certainty, I've got this.

305
00:19:40,817 --> 00:19:43,817
(slow upbeat music)

306
00:20:14,208 --> 00:20:16,000
(slow country music)

307
00:20:16,000 --> 00:20:18,430
- I talk to people and they
say, where do you live?

308
00:20:18,430 --> 00:20:19,960
And I say Emery County and they say,

309
00:20:19,960 --> 00:20:21,360
we don't know where that is.

310
00:20:22,400 --> 00:20:26,123
Well it's in southeast, central Utah.

311
00:20:26,980 --> 00:20:28,380
- [Danny] Middle of nowhere.

312
00:20:29,420 --> 00:20:32,363
Things haven't changed for
a long time around here.

313
00:20:34,050 --> 00:20:37,233
Until the climbers started
showing up in Joes Valley.

314
00:20:38,288 --> 00:20:41,205
(slow banjo music)

315
00:20:46,522 --> 00:20:48,630
(upbeat music)

316
00:20:48,630 --> 00:20:50,920
- Our crew of climbers
came out of Salt Lake City

317
00:20:50,920 --> 00:20:52,210
in the mid 90's.

318
00:20:52,210 --> 00:20:53,820
That generation of climber, in that era,

319
00:20:53,820 --> 00:20:56,180
bouldering was the new thing.

320
00:20:56,180 --> 00:20:58,620
- There was no harnesses,
there was no rope,

321
00:20:58,620 --> 00:21:01,820
this was a new style of
what climbing could be.

322
00:21:01,820 --> 00:21:02,841
- [Spotter] Come on!

323
00:21:02,841 --> 00:21:04,870
- [Steven] We were completely
obsessed with our little world

324
00:21:04,870 --> 00:21:06,460
of burning each other off

325
00:21:06,460 --> 00:21:08,890
and trying to get as strong as possible.

326
00:21:08,890 --> 00:21:11,895
- The culture of it was young, punk rock,

327
00:21:11,895 --> 00:21:14,770
fuck everything we're just
gonna go do what we want.

328
00:21:14,770 --> 00:21:17,900
Climbing back then, it
was more on the fringe.

329
00:21:17,900 --> 00:21:19,510
- I think we were definitely outsiders.

330
00:21:19,510 --> 00:21:22,333
We were dallying from what's
going on in the real world,

331
00:21:23,190 --> 00:21:24,390
on the road all the time.

332
00:21:24,390 --> 00:21:26,700
- We were fiending for a new rock.

333
00:21:26,700 --> 00:21:28,490
So when somebody says hey
there's great boulders

334
00:21:28,490 --> 00:21:30,935
two and a half hours away
from Salt Lake, let's go.

335
00:21:30,935 --> 00:21:31,970
- [Male Friend] Oh my God, there's a bird.

336
00:21:31,970 --> 00:21:36,001
- [Boone] We drove to Joes
Valley, just like holy crap.

337
00:21:36,001 --> 00:21:38,478
(dramatic music)

338
00:21:38,478 --> 00:21:41,200
There's literally tens
of thousands of boulders.

339
00:21:41,200 --> 00:21:43,110
This has everything we've ever looked for

340
00:21:43,110 --> 00:21:45,393
in a bouldering area, like this is sick.

341
00:21:46,860 --> 00:21:47,810
- There were suddenly these like

342
00:21:47,810 --> 00:21:49,703
striking black streak boulders.

343
00:21:50,640 --> 00:21:54,450
There was slab bouldering,
steep bouldering,

344
00:21:54,450 --> 00:21:55,573
super high bouldering.

345
00:21:57,560 --> 00:21:59,760
- The Wild West mentallity
of let's just go

346
00:21:59,760 --> 00:22:02,650
just around that corner
and see what's over there.

347
00:22:02,650 --> 00:22:05,282
- [Mike] The more you hike,
the more you're gonna find--

348
00:22:05,282 --> 00:22:06,524
- Nice!

349
00:22:06,524 --> 00:22:07,560
Nice.

350
00:22:07,560 --> 00:22:10,042
- Classic climbing,
then you just come here,

351
00:22:10,042 --> 00:22:11,250
and it was awesome.

352
00:22:11,250 --> 00:22:13,479
(dramatic music)

353
00:22:13,479 --> 00:22:17,896
- [Steven] Hold on (grunts in pain).

354
00:22:20,830 --> 00:22:22,610
- [Boone] Steven, he was really young,

355
00:22:22,610 --> 00:22:24,672
really friggin strong.

356
00:22:24,672 --> 00:22:27,696
(Steven screaming in pain)

357
00:22:27,696 --> 00:22:28,529
- I want my mommy.

358
00:22:28,529 --> 00:22:29,870
Can't put that in the video.

359
00:22:29,870 --> 00:22:31,590
- [Mike] Steven Jeffrey,
he went down to Joes Valley

360
00:22:31,590 --> 00:22:34,910
and basically found his personal canvas.

361
00:22:34,910 --> 00:22:37,010
He put up some amazing problems.

362
00:22:37,010 --> 00:22:40,130
- So it's been, let's see, 25 years right?

363
00:22:40,130 --> 00:22:41,291
35 years?

364
00:22:41,291 --> 00:22:42,457
(laughs) 25 years--

365
00:22:43,710 --> 00:22:47,150
I've been coming to Joes
for over the last 20 years.

366
00:22:47,150 --> 00:22:50,320
I was 16, 17 years old.

367
00:22:50,320 --> 00:22:54,050
I would come down in my RV,
kind of like runaway style kid

368
00:22:54,050 --> 00:22:56,153
going climbing on these rocks.

369
00:22:57,320 --> 00:22:58,840
It was just complete freedom

370
00:23:01,600 --> 00:23:05,370
but it felt like an alien place in a way.

371
00:23:05,370 --> 00:23:09,100
Joes Valley sits basically
in the dead middle of Utah.

372
00:23:09,100 --> 00:23:12,970
This rural area, it would
almost make me anxious

373
00:23:12,970 --> 00:23:13,860
sometimes when I come out here

374
00:23:13,860 --> 00:23:16,077
'cause I was this naive kid from the city

375
00:23:16,077 --> 00:23:17,820
and here was a whole different world.

376
00:23:17,820 --> 00:23:19,593
It was different culture down here.

377
00:23:20,570 --> 00:23:23,047
There was small town next to Joes Valley.`

378
00:23:23,940 --> 00:23:26,010
I was actually scared to
even go in the grocery store

379
00:23:26,010 --> 00:23:28,050
to buy supplies 'cause it's like,

380
00:23:28,050 --> 00:23:30,053
man these are mean muggin people.

381
00:23:30,970 --> 00:23:32,460
- Yeah check this out.

382
00:23:32,460 --> 00:23:33,920
I remember going to a bar down there,

383
00:23:33,920 --> 00:23:35,527
the video camera dressed like a climber.

384
00:23:35,527 --> 00:23:37,670
one of the bartenders
just shaking her hat at us

385
00:23:37,670 --> 00:23:39,032
and pointing at the door.

386
00:23:39,032 --> 00:23:39,865
- [Bar Patron] Get this
motherfucker right here

387
00:23:39,865 --> 00:23:41,539
to shut the video camera off.

388
00:23:41,539 --> 00:23:42,720
- It wasn't like they didn't like us,

389
00:23:42,720 --> 00:23:44,346
it just they knew we weren't gonna fit in,

390
00:23:44,346 --> 00:23:46,920
it's not a safe place for everybody.

391
00:23:46,920 --> 00:23:48,870
When you go down there,
you're in their country.

392
00:23:48,870 --> 00:23:50,970
- I remember camping the
bottom of the left fork

393
00:23:50,970 --> 00:23:52,907
and some dudes in a
big giant truck pull up

394
00:23:52,907 --> 00:23:54,530
and they're like hey you fucking hippies

395
00:23:54,530 --> 00:23:56,180
and start shooting a bunch of bullets

396
00:23:56,180 --> 00:23:59,120
over the top of our tents
and we're just like, ah.

397
00:23:59,120 --> 00:24:01,608
- [Angry Man] What the fuck are you doing?

398
00:24:01,608 --> 00:24:02,890
- [Jared] We're camping here man.

399
00:24:02,890 --> 00:24:05,690
- The locals, they didn't know who we were

400
00:24:05,690 --> 00:24:07,555
and what we were doing.

401
00:24:07,555 --> 00:24:10,138
(upbeat music)

402
00:24:10,980 --> 00:24:13,610
- I can remember seeing the strange guys

403
00:24:13,610 --> 00:24:15,383
with the mattresses on their back.

404
00:24:17,042 --> 00:24:19,318
And I'm thinking, what in the world?

405
00:24:19,318 --> 00:24:20,160
(grunts)

406
00:24:20,160 --> 00:24:21,730
- They're doing what?

407
00:24:21,730 --> 00:24:23,680
They're climbing on our rocks (laughs)?

408
00:24:25,940 --> 00:24:27,240
- I mean I just couldn't imagine

409
00:24:27,240 --> 00:24:30,000
that being anything he'd really wanna do.

410
00:24:30,000 --> 00:24:31,729
- Ow, fuck.

411
00:24:31,729 --> 00:24:33,080
Fucking ow.

412
00:24:33,080 --> 00:24:36,230
- [Jared] Being an outsider
and looking at bouldering

413
00:24:36,230 --> 00:24:37,893
just looks really weird.

414
00:24:37,893 --> 00:24:40,476
(upbeat music)

415
00:24:41,960 --> 00:24:43,950
- They all wanna climb up the hardest part

416
00:24:43,950 --> 00:24:46,440
of this 12 foot rock.

417
00:24:46,440 --> 00:24:47,450
- Ow!

418
00:24:47,450 --> 00:24:48,807
- It was just--

419
00:24:48,807 --> 00:24:49,640
- Ow!

420
00:24:53,981 --> 00:24:54,814
- You okay?

421
00:24:54,814 --> 00:24:55,647
- Yeah, I'm good.

422
00:24:55,647 --> 00:24:56,480
- My first thoughts?

423
00:24:56,480 --> 00:24:57,313
They're crazy.

424
00:24:57,313 --> 00:24:59,860
(screams and barks)

425
00:24:59,860 --> 00:25:01,190
- In my head I kept thinking,

426
00:25:01,190 --> 00:25:04,473
do you not have rocks where you live?

427
00:25:05,750 --> 00:25:09,270
- Here in Emery County,
this is a small community.

428
00:25:09,270 --> 00:25:11,600
Everybody kind of knows each other.

429
00:25:11,600 --> 00:25:15,650
We're cowboys and coal
miners and power plant folks.

430
00:25:15,650 --> 00:25:17,980
- [Neil] We're quite a conservative group.

431
00:25:17,980 --> 00:25:21,910
- We are Mormons so we are
very, very family oriented.

432
00:25:21,910 --> 00:25:25,500
- Yeah we're very, very churchy
here I guess you could say.

433
00:25:25,500 --> 00:25:27,723
- We all try to protect our own.

434
00:25:30,020 --> 00:25:33,140
So when we saw the rock
climbers coming to the area

435
00:25:34,657 --> 00:25:37,380
it was like hey, we don't
know who these people are.

436
00:25:37,380 --> 00:25:40,040
- I was a manager at Food
Ranch here in Orangeville.

437
00:25:40,040 --> 00:25:42,590
- Food Ranch the hot
spot for the climbers.

438
00:25:42,590 --> 00:25:43,423
So this is where I come

439
00:25:43,423 --> 00:25:45,740
whenever I have a serious
case of the munchies.

440
00:25:45,740 --> 00:25:49,470
- The owner was scared, he
didn't know why they were here.

441
00:25:49,470 --> 00:25:51,760
They dressed a little
different, they had the dreads,

442
00:25:51,760 --> 00:25:54,390
the man buns, you know we
knew that they were showering

443
00:25:54,390 --> 00:25:55,860
in our bathrooms 'cause the bathroom floor

444
00:25:55,860 --> 00:25:57,483
would be wet, little smelly.

445
00:25:58,580 --> 00:26:01,410
- At Food Ranch I'd be hanging
out there with my friends

446
00:26:01,410 --> 00:26:04,980
and these people would walk in
and they look like vagabonds.

447
00:26:04,980 --> 00:26:08,173
Old dirty clothes like they'd
been out walking in the mud.

448
00:26:09,210 --> 00:26:13,003
Just kind of gross, I
feel so bad (laughs).

449
00:26:13,003 --> 00:26:16,490
- Especially back then, the climbers were,

450
00:26:16,490 --> 00:26:18,870
I mean the dirtbag was
the real deal you know,

451
00:26:18,870 --> 00:26:22,410
like your down jacket was soiled.

452
00:26:22,410 --> 00:26:24,160
You look like a homeless person.

453
00:26:24,160 --> 00:26:25,920
- I don't mean this in no bad way

454
00:26:25,920 --> 00:26:29,020
but they reminded me of back in the 70's,

455
00:26:29,020 --> 00:26:31,823
the hippies, just free-spirited people.

456
00:26:31,823 --> 00:26:32,656
- Yeah!

457
00:26:32,656 --> 00:26:35,350
- You can tell the climbers just by,

458
00:26:35,350 --> 00:26:38,870
they look a little disheveled and tired.

459
00:26:38,870 --> 00:26:40,280
In fact we've heard a lot of climbers

460
00:26:40,280 --> 00:26:41,510
call themselves dirt baggers.

461
00:26:41,510 --> 00:26:43,380
- Yeah, we're scared to say that

462
00:26:43,380 --> 00:26:46,030
because we didn't ever
want to offend anybody

463
00:26:46,030 --> 00:26:49,429
but they'll tell us, we're dirt baggers.

464
00:26:49,429 --> 00:26:54,250
- [Doug] And so they're here,
where are they coming from?

465
00:26:54,250 --> 00:26:55,970
And coming into our little town.

466
00:26:55,970 --> 00:26:58,410
- There were a lot of
people talking, in fact,

467
00:26:58,410 --> 00:27:00,310
there was a lot of concern.

468
00:27:00,310 --> 00:27:02,440
Are these guys going to kidnap our kids?

469
00:27:02,440 --> 00:27:04,680
- My mom was always
like, Cambrie stay away

470
00:27:04,680 --> 00:27:07,550
from those people
they're probably weirdos.

471
00:27:07,550 --> 00:27:09,610
- Yeah I wasn't exactly the poster boy

472
00:27:09,610 --> 00:27:12,127
for the Mormon community.

473
00:27:12,127 --> 00:27:14,420
My style,
hey what's happening?

474
00:27:14,420 --> 00:27:17,273
I was Mad Max versus Flea.

475
00:27:18,418 --> 00:27:20,900
(screams)

476
00:27:20,900 --> 00:27:23,330
My van always had some sort of skull.

477
00:27:23,330 --> 00:27:26,360
The bone shifter, got my
little friend hanging here,

478
00:27:26,360 --> 00:27:28,470
here's been out in the
sun a little bit to long.

479
00:27:28,470 --> 00:27:29,363
Water fountain.

480
00:27:30,970 --> 00:27:32,790
- Whenever Jason stopped at a gas station

481
00:27:32,790 --> 00:27:35,358
he would put in six
dollars and 66 cents of gas

482
00:27:35,358 --> 00:27:36,743
just to be weird.

483
00:27:38,240 --> 00:27:40,820
- Poster boy for being a freak.

484
00:27:40,820 --> 00:27:44,763
- We've heard that there's some
goofy mother fucker around.

485
00:27:46,890 --> 00:27:50,366
- I wanted to make people
think, confuse them,

486
00:27:50,366 --> 00:27:52,913
and I think it succeeded to come extent.

487
00:27:54,206 --> 00:27:56,230
(birds chirping)

488
00:27:56,230 --> 00:27:58,520
- For years there was just
a small group of people

489
00:27:58,520 --> 00:28:01,010
climbing on the rocks in Joes Valley

490
00:28:01,010 --> 00:28:04,310
but climbing areas go through changes.

491
00:28:04,310 --> 00:28:06,040
The first turning point of Joes

492
00:28:06,040 --> 00:28:08,490
was descent of the Black
Lung from Ben Moon.

493
00:28:08,490 --> 00:28:09,890
- [Steven] Ben Moon was
one of the most famous

494
00:28:09,890 --> 00:28:11,670
climbers in the world.

495
00:28:11,670 --> 00:28:14,470
- He came over from
England to Joes Valley.

496
00:28:14,470 --> 00:28:16,280
He was trying an undone project.

497
00:28:16,280 --> 00:28:18,650
It was absolutely gorgeous.

498
00:28:18,650 --> 00:28:19,483
- [Man] Nice.

499
00:28:19,483 --> 00:28:23,070
- [Steven] Technical,
powerful, really hard.

500
00:28:23,070 --> 00:28:23,910
At the time it could have been

501
00:28:23,910 --> 00:28:25,868
the hardest boulder problem in the world .

502
00:28:25,868 --> 00:28:28,620
(screams in pain)

503
00:28:28,620 --> 00:28:30,310
- [Boone] It became this epic battle

504
00:28:30,310 --> 00:28:32,080
Ben had with the problem.

505
00:28:32,080 --> 00:28:33,740
- Come on Ben you dozy fuck.

506
00:28:34,663 --> 00:28:35,674
(screams in pain)

507
00:28:35,674 --> 00:28:36,507
Oh fuck.

508
00:28:36,507 --> 00:28:39,447
- I was thinking, I hope no
locals can here us out here.

509
00:28:39,447 --> 00:28:40,363
Fuck.

510
00:28:41,563 --> 00:28:44,063
Piss off snow you fucking wanker.

511
00:28:45,013 --> 00:28:47,763
(dramatic drums)

512
00:28:51,540 --> 00:28:52,373
- [Man] Nice.

513
00:28:52,373 --> 00:28:54,210
- When Ben did Black Lung,

514
00:28:54,210 --> 00:28:55,990
I mean this is like the perfect lining

515
00:28:55,990 --> 00:28:57,250
in a developing area.

516
00:28:57,250 --> 00:29:00,180
- Fucking God damn it
man, I got that perfect.

517
00:29:00,180 --> 00:29:01,644
- It put Joes on the map.

518
00:29:01,644 --> 00:29:03,190
- [Jason] Published in all the magazines

519
00:29:03,190 --> 00:29:04,570
throughout the world.

520
00:29:04,570 --> 00:29:07,500
You'd pick up Grimper in France
and there's a picture of Ben

521
00:29:07,500 --> 00:29:09,510
climbing this iconic boulder problem.

522
00:29:09,510 --> 00:29:12,083
So now everyone wants
to come to Joes Valley.

523
00:29:13,540 --> 00:29:17,054
- [Man] The climbing population
started growing rapidly.

524
00:29:17,054 --> 00:29:18,500
- [Doug] All of a sudden
there's a thousand people

525
00:29:18,500 --> 00:29:19,540
going over a weekend.

526
00:29:19,540 --> 00:29:22,290
Sprinter vans just
bombarding up the canyon.

527
00:29:22,290 --> 00:29:24,760
- Tents all over the side of the road.

528
00:29:24,760 --> 00:29:26,580
- [Doug] It's an invasion
of the entire world

529
00:29:26,580 --> 00:29:27,950
on this little place.

530
00:29:27,950 --> 00:29:29,910
- [Steven] I can understand
locals being like,

531
00:29:29,910 --> 00:29:31,700
oh it's a nuisance.

532
00:29:31,700 --> 00:29:34,360
- Locals worried about
to many people here,

533
00:29:34,360 --> 00:29:36,120
it was the us against them type deal

534
00:29:36,120 --> 00:29:38,560
and they're coming into our
towns and our communities.

535
00:29:38,560 --> 00:29:41,830
- A lot of townspeople
really was kind of against

536
00:29:41,830 --> 00:29:44,890
the climbers coming in and
only wanted to keep them out.

537
00:29:44,890 --> 00:29:47,610
- Two climbers were sitting
on the lawn at the library

538
00:29:47,610 --> 00:29:49,200
and got the cops call on them.

539
00:29:49,200 --> 00:29:51,870
- Honestly we thought
we were being invaded

540
00:29:51,870 --> 00:29:53,935
by a bunch of potheads.

541
00:29:53,935 --> 00:29:55,580
(police siren)

542
00:29:55,580 --> 00:29:57,290
We found a little bit of pot on,

543
00:29:57,290 --> 00:30:00,009
pretty much everyone we did stop so.

544
00:30:00,009 --> 00:30:02,600
- [Steven] There was
definitely tension building.

545
00:30:02,600 --> 00:30:03,433
- Get a job!

546
00:30:05,590 --> 00:30:07,280
- [Steven] I was worried
that climbing access

547
00:30:07,280 --> 00:30:10,090
could be taken away or restricted from us

548
00:30:10,090 --> 00:30:12,480
because in a lot of areas
across the United States

549
00:30:12,480 --> 00:30:15,620
people turn against
climbing and even ban it

550
00:30:15,620 --> 00:30:17,923
and this one is just to good to lose.

551
00:30:18,870 --> 00:30:21,880
- There was this moment
of, we need to connect

552
00:30:21,880 --> 00:30:24,000
before it explodes.

553
00:30:24,000 --> 00:30:26,890
So one day, I was at the Food Ranch

554
00:30:26,890 --> 00:30:30,413
and there was a sign saying city clean up.

555
00:30:31,380 --> 00:30:33,930
It was like perfect, let's
go to the city clean up.

556
00:30:35,850 --> 00:30:37,500
So we show up in the morning

557
00:30:37,500 --> 00:30:41,060
and it's a bunch of ladies preparing food.

558
00:30:41,060 --> 00:30:44,660
- We look over and there's these

559
00:30:44,660 --> 00:30:47,050
different people over there.

560
00:30:47,050 --> 00:30:49,180
They look a little bit like bums,

561
00:30:49,180 --> 00:30:51,570
you think well maybe they're homeless

562
00:30:51,570 --> 00:30:53,753
and then they got up
and walked over to us.

563
00:30:56,020 --> 00:30:58,180
- We're here for the clean
up, when does it start?

564
00:30:58,180 --> 00:31:00,650
And the four ladies like, oh
thank God we were just here

565
00:31:00,650 --> 00:31:02,450
thinking you needed food.

566
00:31:02,450 --> 00:31:06,510
- Oh my words, we were so
excited we said, are you serious?

567
00:31:06,510 --> 00:31:08,203
You're here to help us?

568
00:31:09,350 --> 00:31:14,350
We were just amazed that
outsiders would come in

569
00:31:14,400 --> 00:31:16,910
and give something to our community.

570
00:31:16,910 --> 00:31:19,476
- The classic part was, here
I am shoveling on Main Street,

571
00:31:19,476 --> 00:31:21,680
it's a Saturday, all my
friends from Salt Lake

572
00:31:21,680 --> 00:31:24,850
are coming to climb and they
see me and they're like,

573
00:31:24,850 --> 00:31:26,080
what did you get arrested in town?

574
00:31:26,080 --> 00:31:28,240
What are you doing shoveling the sidewalk?

575
00:31:28,240 --> 00:31:30,884
And I'm like, city clean
up day, I'm helping out.

576
00:31:30,884 --> 00:31:32,950
(truck engine passing by)

577
00:31:32,950 --> 00:31:34,840
- [Doug] After that I
really started thinking

578
00:31:34,840 --> 00:31:37,340
about how climbers could
help Emery County grow

579
00:31:39,090 --> 00:31:40,790
because the reality was this area

580
00:31:40,790 --> 00:31:42,433
had fallen on pretty hard times.

581
00:31:43,760 --> 00:31:48,720
- In Emery County we've had
hay days and we've had slumps.

582
00:31:48,720 --> 00:31:53,083
Our major economic driver
has always been coal.

583
00:31:54,780 --> 00:31:59,430
40 years ago there was 20
something mines in Emery County,

584
00:31:59,430 --> 00:32:03,970
now we have three running mines
so it's not the job provider

585
00:32:03,970 --> 00:32:05,788
that it used to be.

586
00:32:05,788 --> 00:32:07,280
- Yeah the mines shutting down

587
00:32:07,280 --> 00:32:09,993
definitely has been a hardship.

588
00:32:10,929 --> 00:32:13,070
A lot of people had to move.

589
00:32:13,070 --> 00:32:15,230
- The power plants won't last forever

590
00:32:15,230 --> 00:32:17,340
so we need to figure out who we are

591
00:32:17,340 --> 00:32:20,840
and what we wanna become
in the next 20 years.

592
00:32:20,840 --> 00:32:22,700
- There's a lot of
concern that Emery County

593
00:32:22,700 --> 00:32:24,350
will become a ghost town someday.

594
00:32:25,840 --> 00:32:28,850
- This place was struggling,
they just didn't know

595
00:32:28,850 --> 00:32:31,844
they were sitting on
another great resource.

596
00:32:31,844 --> 00:32:33,547
- When the locals, like
when we walk around

597
00:32:33,547 --> 00:32:36,148
we see these lines of
stone and we're just like,

598
00:32:36,148 --> 00:32:38,073
oh my gosh, this is incredible.

599
00:32:38,073 --> 00:32:39,600
I was asked to give a presentation

600
00:32:39,600 --> 00:32:42,620
to the City Council about bouldering.

601
00:32:42,620 --> 00:32:47,010
People asked me, those things
on your back, what is it?

602
00:32:47,010 --> 00:32:49,396
One local thought you
climbed with it on your back

603
00:32:49,396 --> 00:32:52,573
and so when you fell you
just jumped onto your back.

604
00:32:54,170 --> 00:32:56,760
I put up a photo of a Sprinter
van and they all chuckled,

605
00:32:56,760 --> 00:32:58,870
oh yeah we see those all the time.

606
00:32:58,870 --> 00:33:01,640
The next photo is the inside
of the Sprinter remodeled

607
00:33:01,640 --> 00:33:04,070
and how much all this cost.

608
00:33:04,070 --> 00:33:08,250
Climbing shoes are a
$175, crash pads are $200.

609
00:33:08,250 --> 00:33:10,250
I was like, believe it or not these people

610
00:33:10,250 --> 00:33:13,700
living in the dirt, have
money and spend it right?

611
00:33:13,700 --> 00:33:17,097
- So then people were saying
that everyone's a millionaire

612
00:33:17,097 --> 00:33:19,000
who's a rock climber.

613
00:33:19,000 --> 00:33:21,370
I was like, these people are millionaires?

614
00:33:21,370 --> 00:33:24,500
I'm very confused as
to why they're out here

615
00:33:24,500 --> 00:33:25,920
in Emery County instead of traveling

616
00:33:25,920 --> 00:33:27,100
to like Paris and stuff.

617
00:33:27,100 --> 00:33:29,120
- We left town and came
back the next weekend

618
00:33:29,120 --> 00:33:32,260
and there's sign's saying
we love rock climbers.

619
00:33:32,260 --> 00:33:35,400
Food Ranch was the first
to catch on to the idea.

620
00:33:35,400 --> 00:33:36,520
Go in there and next thing you know

621
00:33:36,520 --> 00:33:40,053
there's chalk and crash pads.

622
00:33:41,160 --> 00:33:44,010
- This is the weirdest story
but there was an empty bottle

623
00:33:44,010 --> 00:33:45,760
next to the dumpster at Food Ranch.

624
00:33:46,600 --> 00:33:50,130
You opened the lid, smelled it, like phew.

625
00:33:50,130 --> 00:33:52,140
We kept thinking, what is this?

626
00:33:52,140 --> 00:33:53,357
We started talking to a climber

627
00:33:53,357 --> 00:33:56,793
and he explained all about
the probiotics and kombucha.

628
00:33:58,130 --> 00:34:00,610
They says if you carry it, we'll buy it.

629
00:34:00,610 --> 00:34:03,443
Started carrying it in every
flavor that you could imagine.

630
00:34:04,340 --> 00:34:07,350
- The big final connection
for rock climber to town

631
00:34:07,350 --> 00:34:10,320
was this idea of a festival.

632
00:34:10,320 --> 00:34:13,410
So it started out with me
and my girlfriend Adriana,

633
00:34:13,410 --> 00:34:16,150
we were talking with some locals about it.

634
00:34:16,150 --> 00:34:17,690
- The whole concept for the festival,

635
00:34:17,690 --> 00:34:20,250
it's about bringing the
two communities together,

636
00:34:20,250 --> 00:34:21,763
stepping outside your bubble.

637
00:34:23,370 --> 00:34:24,500
- Locals coming together

638
00:34:24,500 --> 00:34:27,430
with a bunch of crazy rock climbers.

639
00:34:27,430 --> 00:34:30,091
We weren't sure if it was gonna work out.

640
00:34:30,091 --> 00:34:32,275
- [Announcer] Hotdogs, get your hotdogs!

641
00:34:32,275 --> 00:34:35,026
Ketchup, mustard,
relish, get your fixen's.

642
00:34:35,026 --> 00:34:37,268
(crown talking)

643
00:34:37,268 --> 00:34:39,140
- [Danny] We're gonna try to
get to know each other better.

644
00:34:39,140 --> 00:34:42,167
- These are the best
chili dogs I've ever ate.

645
00:34:43,440 --> 00:34:46,403
- Or even maybe learn
some stuff in the process.

646
00:34:47,690 --> 00:34:49,200
- All right everyone let's get ready,

647
00:34:49,200 --> 00:34:50,980
let's get our crash pads and
everything and let's head out

648
00:34:50,980 --> 00:34:52,587
to these boulders over here okay.

649
00:34:52,587 --> 00:34:54,400
(upbeat music)

650
00:34:54,400 --> 00:34:57,650
We had all kinds of
folks from town come out.

651
00:34:57,650 --> 00:35:00,563
People who'd never even
seen or worn climbing shoes,

652
00:35:01,980 --> 00:35:03,730
ascend their first boulder problem.

653
00:35:05,730 --> 00:35:08,330
- My name is Brooklynn
Potter, I'm Miss Emery County.

654
00:35:08,330 --> 00:35:11,220
This is so much fun, I'm having a ball,

655
00:35:11,220 --> 00:35:13,720
I've tried new shoes on, that's great.

656
00:35:13,720 --> 00:35:14,553
Oh my goodness.

657
00:35:18,439 --> 00:35:19,911
(group cheering)

658
00:35:19,911 --> 00:35:20,800
- You actually need to
move your hips this way.

659
00:35:20,800 --> 00:35:23,490
- The festival was my
first time rock climbing.

660
00:35:23,490 --> 00:35:25,860
I was terrified, I'm so scared of heights.

661
00:35:25,860 --> 00:35:27,720
- Retreat and then just
gonna take the fall.

662
00:35:27,720 --> 00:35:28,823
- It was daunting.

663
00:35:30,120 --> 00:35:32,039
- [Adriana] Once you step
up you'll feel a lot better.

664
00:35:32,039 --> 00:35:33,580
- Fudgy heck yeah.

665
00:35:33,580 --> 00:35:35,453
After that I was hooked.

666
00:35:36,380 --> 00:35:37,777
I got the bug bad (laughs).

667
00:35:40,193 --> 00:35:41,764
(crowd cheering)

668
00:35:41,764 --> 00:35:42,677
- Is this the line?

669
00:35:42,677 --> 00:35:43,540
- [Steven] No, it's, jump right in.

670
00:35:43,540 --> 00:35:45,180
- Okay if you're gonna get a picture,

671
00:35:45,180 --> 00:35:46,430
you better friggin hurry.

672
00:35:47,371 --> 00:35:50,410
When I was their age, I would have got rid

673
00:35:50,410 --> 00:35:52,563
of all my fancy trucks and stuff.

674
00:35:55,790 --> 00:35:58,390
I coulda just come up here
with one of them pads.

675
00:35:58,390 --> 00:36:01,140
(crowd cheering)

676
00:36:01,990 --> 00:36:03,163
You guys have fun.

677
00:36:06,120 --> 00:36:09,580
- [Danny] We never wanted it
to be just a climbing festival.

678
00:36:09,580 --> 00:36:11,760
We wanna show climbers
from all around the world

679
00:36:11,760 --> 00:36:13,840
the local culture and flavor around here.

680
00:36:13,840 --> 00:36:14,673
- Yeah!

681
00:36:15,640 --> 00:36:17,910
- So they can kinda
understand our way of life

682
00:36:17,910 --> 00:36:20,380
and why we love it so much here.

683
00:36:20,380 --> 00:36:23,898
- We started doin a clinic
on how to make jerky.

684
00:36:23,898 --> 00:36:25,530
And you just wanna, real light,

685
00:36:25,530 --> 00:36:27,490
pepper makes everything better.

686
00:36:27,490 --> 00:36:30,420
- The jerky was so good
last time that I'm back,

687
00:36:30,420 --> 00:36:32,377
even though I am a vegetarian.

688
00:36:33,570 --> 00:36:34,860
- I hope they keep coming back

689
00:36:34,860 --> 00:36:37,420
and look forward to
meeting a whole bunch more.

690
00:36:37,420 --> 00:36:39,340
(crowd laughing)

691
00:36:39,340 --> 00:36:41,680
- For the grand finale of the festival,

692
00:36:41,680 --> 00:36:43,573
we had something special in mind.

693
00:36:43,573 --> 00:36:45,480
(National anthem playing)

694
00:36:45,480 --> 00:36:47,410
- They said, we're gonna do a rodeo.

695
00:36:47,410 --> 00:36:48,710
- [Commentator] Showing
off their riding skills

696
00:36:48,710 --> 00:36:52,026
while the rock climbers compete
in a number of fun contests.

697
00:36:52,026 --> 00:36:55,943
(commentator speaking faintly)

698
00:36:58,480 --> 00:37:00,143
(crowd cheering)

699
00:37:00,143 --> 00:37:03,570
- The rock climbers getting on steers,

700
00:37:03,570 --> 00:37:05,580
oh this is such a bad idea.

701
00:37:05,580 --> 00:37:08,650
The first boulderer I seen do
it walked out in flip flops.

702
00:37:08,650 --> 00:37:10,500
- I'm wearing sandals this is unfair.

703
00:37:12,492 --> 00:37:14,081
- I thought, it's not gonna end well.

704
00:37:14,081 --> 00:37:16,473
- [Commentator] Let's get out
and let's make some noise--

705
00:37:16,473 --> 00:37:20,598
(commentator speaking
covered by crowd cheering)

706
00:37:20,598 --> 00:37:21,431
Oh!

707
00:37:21,431 --> 00:37:22,507
No points.

708
00:37:22,507 --> 00:37:25,283
- [Danny] The locals, they
think these guys are nuts.

709
00:37:25,283 --> 00:37:29,433
(commentator speaking faintly)

710
00:37:29,433 --> 00:37:32,183
(crowd cheering)

711
00:37:34,137 --> 00:37:37,366
But it's one of the best events
of the bouldering festival.

712
00:37:37,366 --> 00:37:39,689
- [Commentator] Oh!

713
00:37:39,689 --> 00:37:41,161
(crowd cheering)

714
00:37:41,161 --> 00:37:43,266
He's hanging on, squeezing those brakes.

715
00:37:43,266 --> 00:37:46,016
(crowd cheering)

716
00:37:54,595 --> 00:37:57,780
- [Gordon] The minute he
opens his mouth he's lyin.

717
00:37:57,780 --> 00:38:00,800
- We're really glad to
have you guys in the county

718
00:38:00,800 --> 00:38:03,830
at least somebody wants to come here.

719
00:38:03,830 --> 00:38:06,230
- You guys all come from
anywhere you wanna come,

720
00:38:06,230 --> 00:38:08,041
we love bouldering.

721
00:38:08,041 --> 00:38:10,460
I hang on with these two fingers.

722
00:38:10,460 --> 00:38:11,570
- He fell off a boulder.

723
00:38:11,570 --> 00:38:12,967
- There's not a boulder I can't climb.

724
00:38:12,967 --> 00:38:15,680
- No, he fell off a boulder
and hurt his shoulder.

725
00:38:15,680 --> 00:38:16,800
- Hit his shoulder.

726
00:38:16,800 --> 00:38:17,873
- Would you shut up.

727
00:38:20,620 --> 00:38:23,643
- Now climbing is part of town.

728
00:38:24,865 --> 00:38:28,343
The climbers fit in,
they're welcomed in here.

729
00:38:29,290 --> 00:38:32,258
That change over, the acceptance
of the climbing culture,

730
00:38:32,258 --> 00:38:35,250
its cool man, like
there's a coffee shop now.

731
00:38:35,250 --> 00:38:39,870
- We grew up LDS Mormons
and coffee and tea,

732
00:38:39,870 --> 00:38:42,030
you don't drink 'em.

733
00:38:42,030 --> 00:38:43,660
People would ask us,

734
00:38:43,660 --> 00:38:45,470
do you know where we could
get a good cup of coffee?

735
00:38:45,470 --> 00:38:47,070
And we would always tell
them, you have to go to Price,

736
00:38:47,070 --> 00:38:49,460
which is 30 miles north.

737
00:38:49,460 --> 00:38:51,990
We transformed the front room of our house

738
00:38:51,990 --> 00:38:55,193
into a little coffee shop
for the climbers around here.

739
00:38:56,360 --> 00:38:57,880
They just keep coming back.

740
00:38:57,880 --> 00:39:00,470
- My favorite part is you become friends

741
00:39:00,470 --> 00:39:02,550
with people from all over the world.

742
00:39:02,550 --> 00:39:04,413
- I'm from Ecuador,
got amazing people here

743
00:39:04,413 --> 00:39:06,236
that is really friendly.

744
00:39:06,236 --> 00:39:08,503
- Hola, I'm from Buenos Aires, Argentina.

745
00:39:08,503 --> 00:39:09,610
- Valencia, Espana.

746
00:39:09,610 --> 00:39:11,830
- My name is Christer, I'm from Norway.

747
00:39:11,830 --> 00:39:12,840
- Marseille, France.

748
00:39:12,840 --> 00:39:14,670
We had a good coffee and--

749
00:39:14,670 --> 00:39:15,940
- Little tiny Orangeville,

750
00:39:15,940 --> 00:39:18,506
no name country town in
the middle of no where.

751
00:39:18,506 --> 00:39:20,340
Tens of thousands of people come here,

752
00:39:20,340 --> 00:39:22,440
we counted 71 countries.

753
00:39:22,440 --> 00:39:24,750
(upbeat music)

754
00:39:24,750 --> 00:39:27,350
- It's really nice to have
people from around the country

755
00:39:27,350 --> 00:39:30,810
and around the world bring that
diversity into our community

756
00:39:30,810 --> 00:39:32,093
with different ideas.

757
00:39:33,240 --> 00:39:37,319
The rock climbers have made
Emery County a better place.

758
00:39:37,319 --> 00:39:38,734
- You guys climbers?

759
00:39:38,734 --> 00:39:39,760
- [Cameraman] Yeah.

760
00:39:39,760 --> 00:39:43,610
- The people of our community,
they know that our future's

761
00:39:43,610 --> 00:39:45,850
in bouldering, our future's in tourism.

762
00:39:45,850 --> 00:39:47,770
- I think one of the great
things that's happened

763
00:39:47,770 --> 00:39:49,830
is that the local
commissioners have gotten

764
00:39:49,830 --> 00:39:51,450
huge wilderness designation,

765
00:39:51,450 --> 00:39:54,330
like basically the
entire San Rafael Swell.

766
00:39:54,330 --> 00:39:57,970
- The Emery County lands bill
protects a million plus acres

767
00:39:57,970 --> 00:40:00,950
for climbers and outdoor enthusiasts.

768
00:40:00,950 --> 00:40:03,830
- Right now our country is so divided

769
00:40:03,830 --> 00:40:06,880
and the outdoor recreation
is that point at which

770
00:40:06,880 --> 00:40:11,302
diverse people can agree on
things and work together on it.

771
00:40:11,302 --> 00:40:13,890
- [Interviewer] What about
Steven Jeffrey, he's--

772
00:40:13,890 --> 00:40:14,830
- Moved.

773
00:40:14,830 --> 00:40:16,723
Steven Jeffrey just moved there.

774
00:40:18,410 --> 00:40:21,400
- Adriana and I became
a part of this community

775
00:40:21,400 --> 00:40:25,510
through our festival and now we live here.

776
00:40:25,510 --> 00:40:29,150
- I love Orangeville and I
do not wanna leave, ever.

777
00:40:29,150 --> 00:40:30,970
- [Boone] Even as a mayor of
Joe's Valley Bouldering now,

778
00:40:30,970 --> 00:40:33,520
I mean he's writing the
guidebook and he's a local.

779
00:40:34,980 --> 00:40:37,648
I mean he loves that place you know.

780
00:40:37,648 --> 00:40:42,648
♪ Oh lord I see what brings me here ♪

781
00:40:44,384 --> 00:40:48,801
♪ It's a mother to all my wandering ♪

782
00:40:50,120 --> 00:40:53,040
- When I first started
coming down here 25 years ago

783
00:40:53,040 --> 00:40:54,370
I was a scared little kid

784
00:40:54,370 --> 00:40:56,970
just looking for boulders to climb on.

785
00:40:56,970 --> 00:40:58,720
If anyone told me this is the place

786
00:40:58,720 --> 00:41:00,610
where I'd be settling down and livin,

787
00:41:00,610 --> 00:41:02,560
I would definitely think you were crazy

788
00:41:04,140 --> 00:41:07,100
but honestly I couldn't
find a better place on Earth

789
00:41:07,100 --> 00:41:08,311
than Joe's Valley.

790
00:41:08,311 --> 00:41:13,311
♪ And girls will come
in first in clothes ♪

791
00:41:14,361 --> 00:41:19,361
♪ And the boys will wait a gazing ♪

792
00:41:21,043 --> 00:41:26,043
♪ And birds will sing from tops of trees ♪

793
00:41:27,471 --> 00:41:31,388
♪ And sunlight, falling angels ♪

794
00:41:35,567 --> 00:41:38,817
(dramatic piano music)

795
00:41:45,109 --> 00:41:47,609
(piano music)

796
00:42:01,020 --> 00:42:03,310
- [Alex] The Nose is
3000 feet of climbing,

797
00:42:03,310 --> 00:42:04,227
straight up the center of El Capitan.

798
00:42:04,227 --> 00:42:08,987
It's one of the most famous,
historic routes in the world.

799
00:42:10,677 --> 00:42:12,460
The speed record on the nose

800
00:42:12,460 --> 00:42:15,350
has always been a series competition.

801
00:42:15,350 --> 00:42:16,610
The different climbing heroes

802
00:42:16,610 --> 00:42:18,750
breaking the record back and forth.

803
00:42:18,750 --> 00:42:21,863
I mean, climbing El Cap really
quickly is pretty hardcore.

804
00:42:24,774 --> 00:42:26,272
- [Interviewer] Give me a brief history

805
00:42:26,272 --> 00:42:27,362
of speed climbing on The Nose.

806
00:42:27,362 --> 00:42:30,616
- A brief history of speed
climbing on The Nose.

807
00:42:30,616 --> 00:42:32,780
(hammer clanging)

808
00:42:32,780 --> 00:42:35,800
The Nose was first climbed
in 1958 by Warren Harding.

809
00:42:35,800 --> 00:42:37,680
It was the first rock climb of that scale

810
00:42:37,680 --> 00:42:40,430
that had ever been done
and it took 40 days.

811
00:42:40,430 --> 00:42:41,600
Since then people have been trying

812
00:42:41,600 --> 00:42:43,480
to climb it faster and faster.

813
00:42:43,480 --> 00:42:45,190
Royal Robbins did it in a week.

814
00:42:45,190 --> 00:42:46,900
- The second the center
of The Nose was a move

815
00:42:46,900 --> 00:42:48,280
on the Yosemite chess board,

816
00:42:48,280 --> 00:42:50,720
and who ever makes the
best moves is going to win.

817
00:42:50,720 --> 00:42:53,430
- [Alex] Each generation writes
its own history on The Nose.

818
00:42:53,430 --> 00:42:56,254
In the 80's, Peter Croft
started pushing it faster.

819
00:42:56,254 --> 00:42:57,740
(dramatic music)

820
00:42:57,740 --> 00:42:59,640
- If I can do that fast then I've got

821
00:42:59,640 --> 00:43:01,830
the whole afternoon free
to do something else.

822
00:43:01,830 --> 00:43:04,740
- [Alex] In the early 90's
Hans Florine entered the scene

823
00:43:04,740 --> 00:43:07,934
and basically ushered in the
modern era of speed climbing.

824
00:43:07,934 --> 00:43:09,690
(dramatic music)

825
00:43:09,690 --> 00:43:12,790
- Speed climbing The Nose
is the ultimate expression

826
00:43:12,790 --> 00:43:15,011
of how competent a climber you are.

827
00:43:15,011 --> 00:43:18,470
To race up this 3000 foot
wall in under three hours.

828
00:43:18,470 --> 00:43:19,966
You have to have the skills

829
00:43:19,966 --> 00:43:22,940
and endurance like a marathon runner.

830
00:43:22,940 --> 00:43:25,720
It is the most badass
competition there is.

831
00:43:25,720 --> 00:43:29,683
Fastest time up the most
incredible rock face in the world.

832
00:43:30,659 --> 00:43:32,700
I think this record will
last for a good long time.

833
00:43:32,700 --> 00:43:34,735
- [Alex] All these
incredibly talented climbers

834
00:43:34,735 --> 00:43:36,863
started to compete in that arena.

835
00:43:38,150 --> 00:43:40,363
Legendary figures like the Huber brothers.

836
00:43:41,640 --> 00:43:43,098
- And that should be
clipped to the bottom belt?

837
00:43:43,098 --> 00:43:43,931
- Yup.

838
00:43:43,931 --> 00:43:45,310
- [Alex] More women got
into the speed climbing game

839
00:43:45,310 --> 00:43:48,380
like Quinn Brett, Libby
Sauter, Mayan Smith-Gobat.

840
00:43:48,380 --> 00:43:51,755
- It's pretty risky, you
face some really big falls.

841
00:43:51,755 --> 00:43:54,810
(climbers chanting)

842
00:43:54,810 --> 00:43:57,280
- [Alex] Hans recruited Yuji Hirayama.

843
00:43:57,280 --> 00:43:59,888
- We're down to not just
minutes, but to seconds.

844
00:43:59,888 --> 00:44:01,900
(group cheering)

845
00:44:01,900 --> 00:44:03,270
- The record went back and forth.

846
00:44:03,270 --> 00:44:06,380
We wanna one up each other,
we wanna be number one.

847
00:44:06,380 --> 00:44:08,710
The whole strategy starts
to become more extreme.

848
00:44:08,710 --> 00:44:11,140
At the boot I run out the entire back,

849
00:44:11,140 --> 00:44:14,760
just hold the rope with my
hands as Sean swings across.

850
00:44:14,760 --> 00:44:17,280
Basically just less
protection, bigger risks.

851
00:44:17,280 --> 00:44:18,578
- Oh dear, don't fall.

852
00:44:18,578 --> 00:44:19,411
Okay.

853
00:44:19,411 --> 00:44:21,656
- It's coming close to a certain limit.

854
00:44:21,656 --> 00:44:22,580
(climber screaming)

855
00:44:22,580 --> 00:44:24,610
- Just a barely increase there.

856
00:44:24,610 --> 00:44:27,150
- [Alex] In 2012 Dean
Potter shaved a few seconds

857
00:44:27,150 --> 00:44:30,900
off the time and Hans had to
hitch his wagon to a new horse.

858
00:44:30,900 --> 00:44:32,530
- I'd been looking
around for somebody else

859
00:44:32,530 --> 00:44:37,069
I can team up with, I thought,
Alex Honnald soloed half-dome

860
00:44:37,069 --> 00:44:39,403
let's pull him into the mix.

861
00:44:39,403 --> 00:44:41,470
- [Alex] I mean, Hans did
literally write the book

862
00:44:41,470 --> 00:44:42,970
How To Speed Climb which I read

863
00:44:42,970 --> 00:44:44,380
and learned how to speed climb from

864
00:44:44,380 --> 00:44:46,830
so it was pretty exciting for me.

865
00:44:46,830 --> 00:44:48,965
I think the biggest take
away was how systematically

866
00:44:48,965 --> 00:44:51,620
he approached the entire experience.

867
00:44:51,620 --> 00:44:52,540
I was wondering about that.

868
00:44:52,540 --> 00:44:55,290
You had to memorize all
the moves, all the gear,

869
00:44:55,290 --> 00:44:56,580
you had to know what your partner's doing

870
00:44:56,580 --> 00:44:58,400
in the different places,
you had to figure out

871
00:44:58,400 --> 00:45:01,220
all these different ways
to refine things down

872
00:45:01,220 --> 00:45:02,743
as near to perfection as you can.

873
00:45:02,743 --> 00:45:04,675
(dramatic music)

874
00:45:04,675 --> 00:45:07,713
When you get to climb
that well, it's so fun.

875
00:45:08,790 --> 00:45:11,500
Hans and I set a new record of two, 23, 46

876
00:45:11,500 --> 00:45:13,460
and we were pretty
satisfied with ourselves.

877
00:45:13,460 --> 00:45:16,030
Then after five years these two guys,

878
00:45:16,030 --> 00:45:18,220
Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds came along.

879
00:45:18,220 --> 00:45:20,600
- We're kind of the dirt bag monkeys.

880
00:45:20,600 --> 00:45:22,720
- [Alex] And they managed to break it.

881
00:45:22,720 --> 00:45:24,070
Which is pretty impressive.

882
00:45:25,270 --> 00:45:26,640
- When we topped out, you know I made

883
00:45:26,640 --> 00:45:30,830
a little Instagram post then
and I got a text from Alex

884
00:45:30,830 --> 00:45:33,520
literally less than a minute
after I'd made the post,

885
00:45:33,520 --> 00:45:35,270
like hey, congrats you know.

886
00:45:35,270 --> 00:45:37,013
A quick little, like hey, good job guys,

887
00:45:37,013 --> 00:45:38,780
all right, I'm calling Tommy.

888
00:45:38,780 --> 00:45:40,600
(both laughing)

889
00:45:40,600 --> 00:45:43,690
- In the past, you know the
players, like the Hubers,

890
00:45:43,690 --> 00:45:47,150
frickin the Hans Florine,
Yuji Hirayama, these are pros,

891
00:45:47,150 --> 00:45:49,150
these are like the best
climbers in the world.

892
00:45:49,150 --> 00:45:52,310
And then Brad and Jim, the dark horses,

893
00:45:52,310 --> 00:45:55,237
I did not see that one coming
that's for sure (laughs).

894
00:45:56,466 --> 00:45:57,960
(Jim laughing)

895
00:45:57,960 --> 00:46:01,200
I barely knew who they were,
they just came outta nowhere

896
00:46:01,200 --> 00:46:02,870
and broke The Nose speed record.

897
00:46:02,870 --> 00:46:04,270
- [Interviewer] How many
interviews have you done

898
00:46:04,270 --> 00:46:06,200
on camera before today?

899
00:46:06,200 --> 00:46:08,840
- Probably none, I've done no interviews

900
00:46:08,840 --> 00:46:10,140
on camera before (laughs).

901
00:46:11,120 --> 00:46:13,850
- See my vocabulary sucks so
I'm always like, I start talkin

902
00:46:13,850 --> 00:46:16,630
and I'm like what the fuck am I saying?

903
00:46:16,630 --> 00:46:18,410
What am I trying to say?

904
00:46:18,410 --> 00:46:20,493
- [Tommy] They seem kind of goofy and fun.

905
00:46:20,493 --> 00:46:25,280
- Look at this, crispy, the pet squirrel.

906
00:46:25,280 --> 00:46:27,160
- They live kind of like derelicts.

907
00:46:27,160 --> 00:46:29,610
- All right, yeah,
welcome to the place guys,

908
00:46:29,610 --> 00:46:32,410
step through the gate, watch
your head on the skeleton.

909
00:46:32,410 --> 00:46:35,610
We got our stick walls, to give
us a little bit of privacy.

910
00:46:35,610 --> 00:46:37,330
Do you wanna come inside?

911
00:46:37,330 --> 00:46:40,240
We've got basic supplies,
the climbing gear,

912
00:46:40,240 --> 00:46:42,220
the cam shackles, the Beargrease.

913
00:46:42,220 --> 00:46:44,350
This is the finger board, it's good

914
00:46:44,350 --> 00:46:46,540
'cause it's got big holds.

915
00:46:46,540 --> 00:46:48,170
These are the ones I grab onto.

916
00:46:48,170 --> 00:46:49,813
We've got this nice
collage of all my friends

917
00:46:49,813 --> 00:46:52,130
I don't think I actually
know any of those people

918
00:46:52,130 --> 00:46:54,740
but it's a nice collage.

919
00:46:54,740 --> 00:46:56,980
Dean Potter shows us the way.

920
00:46:56,980 --> 00:46:59,130
We follow in Deans footsteps.

921
00:46:59,130 --> 00:47:02,304
This is where we keep
the katana, right here.

922
00:47:02,304 --> 00:47:07,200
This is, been in my family
for at least a generation

923
00:47:07,200 --> 00:47:09,970
which I guess means, my
brother gave it to me

924
00:47:09,970 --> 00:47:14,125
and yeah that's what we
use to combat all evil.

925
00:47:14,125 --> 00:47:15,470
- [Interviewer] What kind
of music do you listen too?

926
00:47:15,470 --> 00:47:19,170
- Mainly death metal, yup,
the heavier, the faster,

927
00:47:19,170 --> 00:47:21,727
gets me stoked, makes me
feel like life is epic

928
00:47:21,727 --> 00:47:23,670
'cause life is epic.

929
00:47:23,670 --> 00:47:27,821
Got the heavy drums, the shreddin guitar,

930
00:47:27,821 --> 00:47:30,821
(heavy metal music)

931
00:47:37,650 --> 00:47:40,508
that's what you need, that's
what you need right there.

932
00:47:40,508 --> 00:47:43,508
(heavy metal music)

933
00:47:48,370 --> 00:47:50,180
Welcome to the circle of power,

934
00:47:50,180 --> 00:47:54,610
this is where we come to
focus our chi, not really,

935
00:47:54,610 --> 00:47:56,650
don't know any martial arts necessarily

936
00:47:56,650 --> 00:47:59,190
but know we're trying to get all centered

937
00:47:59,190 --> 00:48:00,401
and ready for The Nose.

938
00:48:00,401 --> 00:48:03,940
(heavy metal music)

939
00:48:03,940 --> 00:48:06,540
- Jim and I put in a lot
of work, just that season,

940
00:48:06,540 --> 00:48:08,870
we climbed it 11 times.

941
00:48:08,870 --> 00:48:11,370
Trying to perfect that strategy just right

942
00:48:11,370 --> 00:48:14,720
to where we could shave
off just a few minutes.

943
00:48:14,720 --> 00:48:17,223
Go by go we were running
it out a little more,

944
00:48:17,223 --> 00:48:19,250
error back was getting
thinner and thinner.

945
00:48:19,250 --> 00:48:21,360
For my half I made it
to the top of Boots Leg

946
00:48:21,360 --> 00:48:25,310
which is 1500 feet up and
I only placed three cams

947
00:48:25,310 --> 00:48:27,050
in that entire time.

948
00:48:27,050 --> 00:48:29,280
- [Interviewer] How safe was your ascent?

949
00:48:29,280 --> 00:48:32,420
- To say it's safe would be total lie,

950
00:48:32,420 --> 00:48:33,983
I mean it's not that safe.

951
00:48:36,341 --> 00:48:37,700
It's like it is definitely dangerous

952
00:48:37,700 --> 00:48:42,700
but we would try to make
it as reckless as possible.

953
00:48:45,520 --> 00:48:46,620
Let me redo that.

954
00:48:46,620 --> 00:48:51,620
It's like, The Nose record
is absolutely dangerous,

955
00:48:51,670 --> 00:48:55,370
there's no getting
around that but the goal

956
00:48:55,370 --> 00:48:58,947
is to try to make it just--

957
00:49:02,550 --> 00:49:04,670
God damn it I can't speak.

958
00:49:04,670 --> 00:49:05,870
What am I trying to say?

959
00:49:07,932 --> 00:49:10,023
The least amount of recklessness, yeah.

960
00:49:11,070 --> 00:49:11,903
Holy shit.

961
00:49:11,903 --> 00:49:13,250
On the record go, like a dumbass,

962
00:49:13,250 --> 00:49:15,140
I just forgot to drink water,

963
00:49:15,140 --> 00:49:17,400
I was like holy crap man I'm thirsty.

964
00:49:17,400 --> 00:49:19,610
I got up to the Dolt Tower
and there's a party up there

965
00:49:19,610 --> 00:49:22,300
and I was like, can I have some water?

966
00:49:22,300 --> 00:49:23,617
- [Austin] Need coffee or anything?

967
00:49:23,617 --> 00:49:25,490
- No, do you have any water up there?

968
00:49:25,490 --> 00:49:26,610
- [Austin] Yeah lots.

969
00:49:26,610 --> 00:49:28,130
- [Brad] I was breathing super heavy

970
00:49:28,130 --> 00:49:29,943
and I'm trying to drink and I choked.

971
00:49:32,250 --> 00:49:34,531
- Just like coughed
into their water bottle

972
00:49:34,531 --> 00:49:36,181
and gave it back (laughs).

973
00:49:36,181 --> 00:49:37,089
- I'm like, thank you.

974
00:49:37,089 --> 00:49:38,697
(Jim laughing)

975
00:49:38,697 --> 00:49:39,700
- The less you have, the better,

976
00:49:39,700 --> 00:49:42,320
because if you have nothing
on you then you're light

977
00:49:42,320 --> 00:49:44,890
and free and you can climb really fast,

978
00:49:44,890 --> 00:49:46,970
just like being a runner you know,

979
00:49:46,970 --> 00:49:49,310
they got those little tiny
shorts that they run with.

980
00:49:49,310 --> 00:49:51,860
Yeah I would go up there and I
wouldn't wanna wear underwear

981
00:49:51,860 --> 00:49:54,010
'cause it'd weigh me
down to much (laughs).

982
00:49:55,690 --> 00:49:57,620
The closer we're getting to the record

983
00:49:57,620 --> 00:49:59,900
maybe we're pushing that
boundary between dangerous

984
00:49:59,900 --> 00:50:01,943
and reckless just a little bit more.

985
00:50:03,100 --> 00:50:05,960
You're starting to wonder,
can we just take a little bit

986
00:50:05,960 --> 00:50:08,570
more risk and get it finished so that

987
00:50:08,570 --> 00:50:12,499
we don't have to come back
and take all that risk again?

988
00:50:12,499 --> 00:50:15,450
(dramatic music)

989
00:50:15,450 --> 00:50:18,280
- [Brad] Part of the strategy
is that I need to be right on

990
00:50:18,280 --> 00:50:22,010
Jim's ass for that last pitch
'cause the time doesn't stop

991
00:50:22,010 --> 00:50:23,470
until I touch the tree.

992
00:50:23,470 --> 00:50:26,523
Yeah, I'm giving it everything I got.

993
00:50:27,440 --> 00:50:29,500
I'm just sticking my
fingers through the hangers,

994
00:50:29,500 --> 00:50:31,640
I'm not clipping them with carabiners.

995
00:50:31,640 --> 00:50:33,380
- I heard that at the top Brad
was literally just holding on

996
00:50:33,380 --> 00:50:36,220
with his fingers to the
bolts and just plowing across

997
00:50:36,220 --> 00:50:38,370
and they had an entire 60
meter rope hanging between them

998
00:50:38,370 --> 00:50:40,510
but with nothing clipped
and you're like what?

999
00:50:40,510 --> 00:50:42,764
Like what are you guys doing?

1000
00:50:42,764 --> 00:50:44,530
- This one final bolt that I clipped

1001
00:50:44,530 --> 00:50:46,680
just so that we're clipped into something

1002
00:50:46,680 --> 00:50:48,760
but this time I'm like
we're gonna break the record

1003
00:50:48,760 --> 00:50:50,290
there's no time for anything.

1004
00:50:50,290 --> 00:50:53,357
So I skip it and it's a
little Dean Potter quote,

1005
00:50:53,357 --> 00:50:55,437
"No gear, no falls".

1006
00:50:55,437 --> 00:50:56,937
"No gear, no falls".

1007
00:50:58,020 --> 00:51:00,180
Brad's down there just like monoing

1008
00:51:00,180 --> 00:51:01,460
through the bolt hangers.

1009
00:51:01,460 --> 00:51:03,130
- I was like, what does he mean?

1010
00:51:03,130 --> 00:51:03,963
Like there's no gear?

1011
00:51:03,963 --> 00:51:04,796
What?

1012
00:51:04,796 --> 00:51:06,840
I remember pulling over to this one lip

1013
00:51:06,840 --> 00:51:08,560
and I was like, yeah he's not joking,

1014
00:51:08,560 --> 00:51:10,596
there's no gear between us.

1015
00:51:10,596 --> 00:51:13,596
(heavy metal music)

1016
00:51:18,370 --> 00:51:19,939
- Yeah man, come on!

1017
00:51:19,939 --> 00:51:21,718
We got this!

1018
00:51:21,718 --> 00:51:22,801
Come on Brad!

1019
00:51:23,717 --> 00:51:24,982
Come on!

1020
00:51:24,982 --> 00:51:26,640
Yeah man!

1021
00:51:26,640 --> 00:51:27,473
- Cool.

1022
00:51:28,580 --> 00:51:31,620
- Oh my God, we did it
(Brads speech muffled by Jim)

1023
00:51:31,620 --> 00:51:34,740
- When Brad and Jim took Alex's record,

1024
00:51:34,740 --> 00:51:36,930
Alex started talking about recruiting me.

1025
00:51:36,930 --> 00:51:40,140
- There aren't that many
potential partners out there

1026
00:51:40,140 --> 00:51:41,310
for speed climbing The Nose,

1027
00:51:41,310 --> 00:51:42,280
there's just not that many people

1028
00:51:42,280 --> 00:51:45,093
who can physically climb
3000 feet really fast.

1029
00:51:46,470 --> 00:51:48,440
To me the most obvious
choice is Tommy Caldwell.

1030
00:51:48,440 --> 00:51:49,740
He's a really good trad climber,

1031
00:51:49,740 --> 00:51:51,210
he's a really good granite climber,

1032
00:51:51,210 --> 00:51:52,590
I mean my shoes are named after him

1033
00:51:52,590 --> 00:51:54,560
so that's always a good sign.

1034
00:51:54,560 --> 00:51:58,340
- Alex is the best climber for
that style of rock climbing

1035
00:51:58,340 --> 00:52:00,960
and so when two monkeys
crawl outta the boulders

1036
00:52:00,960 --> 00:52:05,230
and take his record, he's gotta
team up with the other Titan

1037
00:52:05,230 --> 00:52:08,620
of Yosemite rock climbing
and show us how it's done

1038
00:52:08,620 --> 00:52:10,100
but we'll see.

1039
00:52:10,100 --> 00:52:10,933
- We'll see.

1040
00:52:10,933 --> 00:52:11,766
(Jim laughs)

1041
00:52:11,766 --> 00:52:12,599
- Yeah, we'll see.

1042
00:52:14,043 --> 00:52:16,971
- You know there's a video clip
of Brad and Jim climbing it.

1043
00:52:16,971 --> 00:52:18,253
- Brad Gobright--

1044
00:52:18,253 --> 00:52:21,047
- When two aspiring amateurs
dis you on the tally pull.

1045
00:52:21,047 --> 00:52:23,693
- It was 2, 19, 44, I
thought it was 2, 17, 44.

1046
00:52:23,693 --> 00:52:24,969
- Oh yeah now it seems pretty obtainable.

1047
00:52:24,969 --> 00:52:25,969
- Yeah.

1048
00:52:25,969 --> 00:52:27,760
- Oh well, 2,19.

1049
00:52:27,760 --> 00:52:29,885
Whoa, look how far he's
swinging for the King Swing.

1050
00:52:29,885 --> 00:52:31,562
(Tommy laughs)

1051
00:52:31,562 --> 00:52:33,430
Look how much jumping he's
doing, that can't be the way

1052
00:52:33,430 --> 00:52:35,080
he actually did it, that's crazy.

1053
00:52:36,174 --> 00:52:38,460
What a (speech muffled
from food in Jims mouth)

1054
00:52:38,460 --> 00:52:41,992
and his rope is just
flossing across the ledge.

1055
00:52:41,992 --> 00:52:43,490
- I like critiquing
somebodies else's climbing

1056
00:52:43,490 --> 00:52:44,743
while you sit and eat chips.

1057
00:52:44,743 --> 00:52:45,900
(Tommy laughs)

1058
00:52:45,900 --> 00:52:48,610
(chip crunching)

1059
00:52:48,610 --> 00:52:50,030
I mean not to throw them under the bus

1060
00:52:50,030 --> 00:52:51,420
but when you watch the time lapse

1061
00:52:51,420 --> 00:52:54,470
of the two of them climbing
The Nose in a couple minutes.

1062
00:52:54,470 --> 00:52:57,678
I mean, it looks sketchy.

1063
00:52:57,678 --> 00:52:59,140
- Oh man, he's really close.

1064
00:52:59,140 --> 00:53:00,772
- Yeah, he's so close and I'm sure

1065
00:53:00,772 --> 00:53:02,470
they don't have any gear clipped.

1066
00:53:02,470 --> 00:53:04,590
I mean Brad's like 15 feet behind him.

1067
00:53:04,590 --> 00:53:05,423
- Yeah.

1068
00:53:05,423 --> 00:53:07,224
- I mean Brad could pass him
right there if he wanted too.

1069
00:53:07,224 --> 00:53:08,290
(Tommy laughs)

1070
00:53:08,290 --> 00:53:09,123
Brad should have played through,

1071
00:53:09,123 --> 00:53:11,160
I mean they have the
whole 60 meter rope out

1072
00:53:11,160 --> 00:53:12,400
with nothing clipped,

1073
00:53:12,400 --> 00:53:16,228
it's just not the way we're gonna do it.

1074
00:53:16,228 --> 00:53:18,600
- No (laughs).

1075
00:53:18,600 --> 00:53:19,590
- That's crazy.

1076
00:53:19,590 --> 00:53:21,115
- Alex had told me a
couple times, he's like

1077
00:53:21,115 --> 00:53:25,060
dude you guys are sketch up
there, that seems really sketchy

1078
00:53:25,060 --> 00:53:27,450
and I was like, yeah it's sketchy

1079
00:53:27,450 --> 00:53:29,913
but that's why I've got
the record and you don't.

1080
00:53:35,853 --> 00:53:39,950
- The Nose speed record is one
of the big games in climbing.

1081
00:53:39,950 --> 00:53:41,800
I mean I've always been curious

1082
00:53:41,800 --> 00:53:45,490
but yeah I always thought speed
climbing was kinda dangerous

1083
00:53:45,490 --> 00:53:50,273
and I've never been the danger
guy but climbing with Alex,

1084
00:53:50,273 --> 00:53:52,380
it's just so fun.

1085
00:53:52,380 --> 00:53:54,840
Pretty much any time Alex
says let's go do something

1086
00:53:54,840 --> 00:53:56,500
I'm gonna say yes.

1087
00:53:56,500 --> 00:53:58,563
He's my bad influence friend, absolutely.

1088
00:53:59,560 --> 00:54:00,393
- How are you guys?

1089
00:54:00,393 --> 00:54:01,439
How's the fam been?

1090
00:54:01,439 --> 00:54:04,310
- Good, good, yeah the
fam's so good these days.

1091
00:54:04,310 --> 00:54:05,640
They don't like it when I leave,

1092
00:54:05,640 --> 00:54:08,430
that part sucks but everything else is--

1093
00:54:08,430 --> 00:54:10,950
- It's a good thing you're
only gone for a month huh?

1094
00:54:10,950 --> 00:54:12,447
- Oh my gosh, are you gone for a month?

1095
00:54:12,447 --> 00:54:14,200
- Well they're gonna come and hang.

1096
00:54:14,200 --> 00:54:15,033
- Oh okay.

1097
00:54:17,518 --> 00:54:19,550
- [Tommy] Wow, I get like shakey excited

1098
00:54:19,550 --> 00:54:21,390
every time I come here still.

1099
00:54:21,390 --> 00:54:23,180
Still happens, it's pretty rad.

1100
00:54:23,180 --> 00:54:25,200
- [Alex] It's pretty exciting.

1101
00:54:25,200 --> 00:54:29,470
- [Tommy] The last couple
years, my life is so different,

1102
00:54:29,470 --> 00:54:33,733
I've got two kids now, the
Dawn Wall movie's coming out,

1103
00:54:34,600 --> 00:54:36,820
I wrote a book and I've been flying

1104
00:54:36,820 --> 00:54:38,930
all over the place doing events.

1105
00:54:38,930 --> 00:54:40,300
I just haven't been able to get out

1106
00:54:40,300 --> 00:54:44,403
and have these adventures
but I crave it to my core.

1107
00:54:45,990 --> 00:54:49,780
The whole game of racing the
clock was totally new to me

1108
00:54:49,780 --> 00:54:52,653
but I wanted to at least
see what it was like.

1109
00:54:53,882 --> 00:54:55,492
- [Austin] Who's wearing a helmet?

1110
00:54:55,492 --> 00:54:57,992
- I'm wearing a helmet,
first time for everything.

1111
00:55:01,190 --> 00:55:02,973
- [Tommy] Wow you look weird in a helmet.

1112
00:55:04,460 --> 00:55:06,770
- Okay I started our timer so,

1113
00:55:06,770 --> 00:55:09,832
we need just a few tons of
slack, don't worry about it.

1114
00:55:09,832 --> 00:55:12,360
(dramatic music)

1115
00:55:12,360 --> 00:55:14,640
Okay, I've actually got a piece in.

1116
00:55:14,640 --> 00:55:16,340
Normally when you're climbing

1117
00:55:16,340 --> 00:55:19,165
your partner is holding the
rope and they're belaying you.

1118
00:55:19,165 --> 00:55:22,250
(Tommy whistles)

1119
00:55:22,250 --> 00:55:24,180
You stop, and you then you
belay them up, you know,

1120
00:55:24,180 --> 00:55:25,868
one and then the other and then the other.

1121
00:55:25,868 --> 00:55:28,090
- Okay I'm climbing Alex.

1122
00:55:28,090 --> 00:55:31,290
- If you wanna go faster,
you can simul-climb,

1123
00:55:31,290 --> 00:55:33,090
where you both climb simultaneously.

1124
00:55:34,620 --> 00:55:36,290
When you're simul-climbing

1125
00:55:36,290 --> 00:55:38,540
you definitely need a
partner that you trust.

1126
00:55:41,060 --> 00:55:42,690
Your partner should have a loop of slack

1127
00:55:42,690 --> 00:55:45,130
out in front of them so
that you have some freedom

1128
00:55:45,130 --> 00:55:47,800
of movement as you climb and
then they also have to manage

1129
00:55:47,800 --> 00:55:50,470
all the extra slack
hanging down below them.

1130
00:55:50,470 --> 00:55:52,910
As the leader, you're placing
gear wherever you want

1131
00:55:52,910 --> 00:55:55,290
but if you fall off, you
know that your partner

1132
00:55:55,290 --> 00:55:56,510
is gonna catch you but you don't know

1133
00:55:56,510 --> 00:55:58,140
if there's like a 10
foot loop of slack out

1134
00:55:58,140 --> 00:55:59,490
or a 20 foot loop of slack.

1135
00:56:01,380 --> 00:56:05,888
Basically it's hard to know
what'll happen if you fall off.

1136
00:56:05,888 --> 00:56:08,638
(dramatic music)

1137
00:56:10,090 --> 00:56:11,240
So Tommy?

1138
00:56:11,240 --> 00:56:12,710
- Yeah?

1139
00:56:12,710 --> 00:56:14,650
- You can go a little slower Tommy

1140
00:56:14,650 --> 00:56:17,170
'cause there's only really the two anchors

1141
00:56:17,170 --> 00:56:18,250
clipped between us.

1142
00:56:18,250 --> 00:56:20,930
- Oh yeah, okay, just don't fall, got it.

1143
00:56:20,930 --> 00:56:23,420
- When you speed climb
The Nose, anything goes.

1144
00:56:23,420 --> 00:56:26,970
Any combination of free
climbing, aid climbing,

1145
00:56:26,970 --> 00:56:29,670
cheating, you're stepping on bolts,

1146
00:56:29,670 --> 00:56:31,653
you're pulling on gear if you need too.

1147
00:56:32,970 --> 00:56:33,943
Total free for all.

1148
00:56:35,380 --> 00:56:37,200
There's are always
weird logistical snaffus

1149
00:56:37,200 --> 00:56:40,152
or like things happen and you
just have to deal with them.

1150
00:56:40,152 --> 00:56:42,902
(dramatic music)

1151
00:56:47,087 --> 00:56:48,302
- [Austin] How you doin?

1152
00:56:48,302 --> 00:56:49,853
- Pretty good, yeah,

1153
00:56:50,839 --> 00:56:52,890
been crash coursed back
into the world of granite.

1154
00:56:52,890 --> 00:56:54,010
- [Alex] I'm gonna start
going up the bolt ladder

1155
00:56:54,010 --> 00:56:57,200
and then the aid climbing
so I'll be a little slower

1156
00:56:57,200 --> 00:56:58,660
and you can kinda keep me a little tighter

1157
00:56:58,660 --> 00:56:59,953
through this part, okay?

1158
00:57:00,902 --> 00:57:02,402
- I got you tight.

1159
00:57:03,300 --> 00:57:05,520
- [Alex] Okay, I'm on the boot.

1160
00:57:05,520 --> 00:57:06,720
I'll just put you on belay

1161
00:57:06,720 --> 00:57:09,413
and you should just climb
this part casual style.

1162
00:57:09,413 --> 00:57:11,313
(dramatic music)

1163
00:57:11,313 --> 00:57:13,360
- Oh my God, dude Quinn fell so far.

1164
00:57:13,360 --> 00:57:14,950
- [Alex] Dude.

1165
00:57:14,950 --> 00:57:15,783
- Jesus.

1166
00:57:15,783 --> 00:57:17,300
- [Alex] I know and as
you climb this think about

1167
00:57:17,300 --> 00:57:21,744
how weirdly slippery
and kinda weird it is.

1168
00:57:21,744 --> 00:57:23,770
(dramatic music)

1169
00:57:23,770 --> 00:57:25,747
- Yeah it is kinda slick rock huh.

1170
00:57:30,850 --> 00:57:32,830
- The main thing with
speed climbing The Nose

1171
00:57:32,830 --> 00:57:35,530
is that you shouldn't fall off, ever,

1172
00:57:35,530 --> 00:57:40,530
but it's hard to fall off, it's 5.10

1173
00:57:40,630 --> 00:57:42,310
you never have to do any hard moves

1174
00:57:42,310 --> 00:57:43,950
because you're cheating
as much as you can,

1175
00:57:43,950 --> 00:57:45,740
you're pulling on draws,
you're stepping on bolts,

1176
00:57:45,740 --> 00:57:47,310
it feels pretty comfortable.

1177
00:57:47,310 --> 00:57:49,360
- I think sometimes Alex is just so,

1178
00:57:49,360 --> 00:57:53,260
he is so confident in
himself that he tends to just

1179
00:57:54,530 --> 00:57:56,747
think that other people
are as solid as he is

1180
00:57:56,747 --> 00:57:58,853
but it's not the case.

1181
00:58:01,100 --> 00:58:05,330
Our first run, I lead the last 500 feet.

1182
00:58:05,330 --> 00:58:07,630
I was climbing along and I got
to a place where I was like

1183
00:58:07,630 --> 00:58:10,873
oh it's a little bit harder
here, didn't realize it was wet.

1184
00:58:14,047 --> 00:58:14,880
Falling!

1185
00:58:17,212 --> 00:58:18,593
- [Alex] Whoa, are you okay?

1186
00:58:18,593 --> 00:58:21,020
- [Tommy] I just slipped
out of a wet crack.

1187
00:58:21,020 --> 00:58:22,650
I had a piece of gear right at my feet

1188
00:58:22,650 --> 00:58:26,512
and it felt like 50 or 60 feet.

1189
00:58:26,512 --> 00:58:27,345
Falling!

1190
00:58:29,275 --> 00:58:31,660
Wow I slipped out the wet crack.

1191
00:58:31,660 --> 00:58:32,750
- [Alex] Whoa are you okay?

1192
00:58:32,750 --> 00:58:33,850
- Yeah yeah, I'm fine.

1193
00:58:34,860 --> 00:58:35,890
- [Alex] Whoa jeez.

1194
00:58:35,890 --> 00:58:36,900
- [Tommy] What's that?

1195
00:58:36,900 --> 00:58:38,160
- [Alex] I said oh jeez.

1196
00:58:38,160 --> 00:58:40,300
- I just put in a piece luckily.

1197
00:58:40,300 --> 00:58:41,840
- [Alex] Oh yeah, sweet.

1198
00:58:41,840 --> 00:58:43,070
- Yeah sorry about that.

1199
00:58:43,070 --> 00:58:44,689
- [Alex] No no, that's--

1200
00:58:44,689 --> 00:58:46,353
Sorry I had you kinda loose.

1201
00:58:48,210 --> 00:58:50,470
- Okay Alex, can you pull it tight here?

1202
00:58:50,470 --> 00:58:52,070
- [Alex] Okay, I got you good.

1203
00:58:52,070 --> 00:58:53,130
- Thank you.

1204
00:58:53,130 --> 00:58:54,130
- [Alex] Nice Tommy.

1205
00:58:55,836 --> 00:58:57,980
- [Tommy] We climbed it
in four and a half hours.

1206
00:58:57,980 --> 00:58:59,149
- [Alex] Okay.

1207
00:58:59,149 --> 00:59:00,350
- [Tommy] It was kinda
mind blowing for me.

1208
00:59:00,350 --> 00:59:01,183
That was fun though man.

1209
00:59:01,183 --> 00:59:02,957
- Yeah that was really good.

1210
00:59:02,957 --> 00:59:05,850
- It's gonna be a good workout.

1211
00:59:05,850 --> 00:59:06,683
- [Alex] Yeah so are we thinking

1212
00:59:06,683 --> 00:59:07,516
we'll climb The Nose again tomorrow?

1213
00:59:07,516 --> 00:59:09,720
- I feel pretty good right
now, I feel like we could.

1214
00:59:09,720 --> 00:59:11,080
- I'm down if you're down.

1215
00:59:11,080 --> 00:59:14,320
Tommy, he was surprisingly
enthusiastic about it.

1216
00:59:14,320 --> 00:59:15,990
Speed climbing kinda suits
his schedule right now,

1217
00:59:15,990 --> 00:59:17,992
I mean honestly he's in
the middle of a book tour.

1218
00:59:17,992 --> 00:59:20,400
- I was surprised, I feel shockingly--

1219
00:59:20,400 --> 00:59:21,233
- Good?

1220
00:59:21,233 --> 00:59:22,066
- Right, yeah.

1221
00:59:22,066 --> 00:59:22,899
- [Alex] It's definitely a good way

1222
00:59:22,899 --> 00:59:23,732
to maximize the amount of climbing you do

1223
00:59:23,732 --> 00:59:24,830
in a short amount of time.

1224
00:59:24,830 --> 00:59:26,365
- Hey Tommy, say hi.

1225
00:59:26,365 --> 00:59:27,798
- Hey, how you guys doin?

1226
00:59:27,798 --> 00:59:28,970
- Are you climbing today?

1227
00:59:28,970 --> 00:59:31,190
- Yeah we climbed El Cap already today.

1228
00:59:31,190 --> 00:59:32,380
- Oh nice.

1229
00:59:32,380 --> 00:59:33,410
- Which route did you climb?

1230
00:59:33,410 --> 00:59:34,399
- The Nose.

1231
00:59:34,399 --> 00:59:35,232
- Oh nice.

1232
00:59:36,370 --> 00:59:37,690
Awesome.

1233
00:59:37,690 --> 00:59:39,160
- Yup, just a little fitness lap.

1234
00:59:39,160 --> 00:59:40,643
- I've got Alex's already.

1235
00:59:40,643 --> 00:59:41,476
- Oh yeah?

1236
00:59:41,476 --> 00:59:43,467
- Reel Rock L.A.

1237
00:59:43,467 --> 00:59:44,300
- [Tommy] Nice.

1238
00:59:44,300 --> 00:59:45,453
- [Male Fan] I totally understand man.

1239
00:59:45,453 --> 00:59:47,700
- Are you guys getting on
something this afternoon?

1240
00:59:47,700 --> 00:59:49,450
- No, I'm getting in my bed.

1241
00:59:49,450 --> 00:59:51,633
- Oh, okay, thanks.

1242
00:59:52,530 --> 00:59:54,750
- [Interviewer] Tommy took
a 50 foot whipper today.

1243
00:59:54,750 --> 00:59:55,617
- Did he really?

1244
00:59:55,617 --> 00:59:56,803
Are you serious?

1245
00:59:57,768 --> 00:59:59,070
Fuck.

1246
00:59:59,070 --> 01:00:00,603
He took a 50 foot whipper?

1247
01:00:01,617 --> 01:00:02,840
Did you film it?

1248
01:00:02,840 --> 01:00:03,950
You got it on film?

1249
01:00:03,950 --> 01:00:05,880
Oh yeah.

1250
01:00:05,880 --> 01:00:06,993
Money shot.

1251
01:00:09,040 --> 01:00:12,120
Well there you go, even
if you're a 5.15 climber

1252
01:00:12,120 --> 01:00:14,363
the 5.10 cracks can still get you

1253
01:00:14,363 --> 01:00:15,830
when you're speed climbing man.

1254
01:00:15,830 --> 01:00:18,390
Maybe you're flying in the night before

1255
01:00:18,390 --> 01:00:19,840
and you haven't climbed
in Yosemite in a while

1256
01:00:19,840 --> 01:00:23,177
so you decide to team up with
Alex and sprint up The Nose.

1257
01:00:23,177 --> 01:00:24,680
That's when you can take the whip,

1258
01:00:24,680 --> 01:00:26,690
when you're in a 5.10 wet lie back.

1259
01:00:26,690 --> 01:00:29,520
- Yeah but me and Brad, we
spend a lot of time in Yosemite,

1260
01:00:29,520 --> 01:00:31,540
we don't travel anywhere else.

1261
01:00:31,540 --> 01:00:33,390
- I have yet to go on any book tours.

1262
01:00:34,240 --> 01:00:35,073
- Yeah.

1263
01:00:37,002 --> 01:00:38,750
- I'll fall anywhere doing the fastest--

1264
01:00:38,750 --> 01:00:40,428
- You're not supposed to fall ever.

1265
01:00:40,428 --> 01:00:41,370
- Whoa, shit.

1266
01:00:41,370 --> 01:00:43,160
- Maybe they've got a new strategy.

1267
01:00:43,160 --> 01:00:43,993
- Wow.

1268
01:00:43,993 --> 01:00:44,826
- Bringing more cams.

1269
01:00:44,826 --> 01:00:45,764
- What--

1270
01:00:45,764 --> 01:00:46,920
- [Interviewer] They have a huge rack.

1271
01:00:46,920 --> 01:00:48,065
- They have a huge rack yeah?

1272
01:00:48,065 --> 01:00:49,150
- [Interviewer] Just to start.

1273
01:00:49,150 --> 01:00:51,173
- Yeah, just to start, it'll get thinner.

1274
01:00:52,090 --> 01:00:54,300
- Alex is like no dude, I swear it's safe,

1275
01:00:54,300 --> 01:00:55,810
we can totally make it safe

1276
01:00:55,810 --> 01:00:58,039
and then each time they go
up there he'll probably like,

1277
01:00:58,039 --> 01:01:01,577
just oops, we forgot the
other point five (laughs).

1278
01:01:02,810 --> 01:01:04,700
- Let's organize the rack so that,

1279
01:01:04,700 --> 01:01:06,910
you may as well just organize
it straight onto your harness

1280
01:01:06,910 --> 01:01:08,570
so you're ready to leave tomorrow.

1281
01:01:08,570 --> 01:01:11,620
- I've been really surprised
by Alex's willingness

1282
01:01:11,620 --> 01:01:13,018
to keep it a bit safer.

1283
01:01:13,018 --> 01:01:14,678
- I feel like we should just
start trimming down the rack

1284
01:01:14,678 --> 01:01:15,511
a little bit as we go.

1285
01:01:15,511 --> 01:01:16,443
- Although I'm already seeing that

1286
01:01:16,443 --> 01:01:17,740
when we're going through our rack,

1287
01:01:17,740 --> 01:01:19,130
he's like oh we can remove this piece,

1288
01:01:19,130 --> 01:01:20,555
we can remove this piece, and I'm like,

1289
01:01:20,555 --> 01:01:22,790
let's' not take that to far.

1290
01:01:22,790 --> 01:01:25,340
- Let's drop the cam hook, screw that,

1291
01:01:25,340 --> 01:01:26,860
maybe I'll leave these micronuts.

1292
01:01:26,860 --> 01:01:29,040
- So we will maybe need to put another nut

1293
01:01:29,040 --> 01:01:30,370
in the Great Roof tomorrow.

1294
01:01:30,370 --> 01:01:32,130
- If it's this nut then I'm not gonna feel

1295
01:01:32,130 --> 01:01:33,217
that much more secure anyway.

1296
01:01:33,217 --> 01:01:34,118
(Tommy laughs)

1297
01:01:34,118 --> 01:01:36,103
Do you wanna drop the green C three?

1298
01:01:40,030 --> 01:01:41,080
- Yeah, sure.

1299
01:01:41,080 --> 01:01:43,395
- Just take one thing off the harness.

1300
01:01:43,395 --> 01:01:45,060
- Sure.

1301
01:01:45,060 --> 01:01:45,970
- You're all wrapped up.

1302
01:01:45,970 --> 01:01:48,010
- Yeah that's not horrible.

1303
01:01:48,010 --> 01:01:49,510
That does feel heavy actually.

1304
01:01:50,890 --> 01:01:52,490
- That's why we'll trim it down.

1305
01:01:54,330 --> 01:01:57,373
- My wife isn't exactly stoked about this,

1306
01:01:58,310 --> 01:02:00,363
everybody thinks it's pretty dangerous.

1307
01:02:01,410 --> 01:02:05,910
With all the carnage in
the past year on that route

1308
01:02:05,910 --> 01:02:07,163
makes me hesitate a bit.

1309
01:02:08,250 --> 01:02:11,360
- There have been a lot
of semi-legendary falls

1310
01:02:11,360 --> 01:02:13,980
on The Nose where people fall
like 100 feet down the wall.

1311
01:02:13,980 --> 01:02:16,320
I was climbing with Ueli
Steck when he took a fall.

1312
01:02:16,320 --> 01:02:17,153
- Oh shit.

1313
01:02:17,153 --> 01:02:18,550
- [Alex] He's a little banged
up and bleeding a little bit

1314
01:02:18,550 --> 01:02:20,020
but he was basically fine.

1315
01:02:20,020 --> 01:02:23,090
The Huber brothers, I think
Thomas took some epic whipper

1316
01:02:23,090 --> 01:02:26,570
off The Nose and then just a week ago,

1317
01:02:26,570 --> 01:02:30,370
Hans Florine fell off and hit a ledge.

1318
01:02:30,370 --> 01:02:33,720
- I'm pretty sure I've
broken one or both my legs.

1319
01:02:33,720 --> 01:02:35,560
- [Alex] Shattered both his heels.

1320
01:02:35,560 --> 01:02:37,143
- [Nurse] Insert ice packs.

1321
01:02:39,070 --> 01:02:41,960
- Ice and elevation baby, and rest.

1322
01:02:41,960 --> 01:02:42,793
- [Alex] Hans has climbed The Nose

1323
01:02:42,793 --> 01:02:45,540
like 109 times or something.

1324
01:02:45,540 --> 01:02:46,590
- That's where I fell, right there.

1325
01:02:46,590 --> 01:02:48,590
- [Alex] And then to just
take a fall like that

1326
01:02:48,590 --> 01:02:52,060
and break both his legs is pretty grim.

1327
01:02:52,060 --> 01:02:55,100
- I think Hans' injury,
the way that we climb

1328
01:02:55,100 --> 01:02:59,003
I always thought that that
kinda injury was a possibility.

1329
01:02:59,880 --> 01:03:02,172
Breaking your legs you're
gonna recover from that.

1330
01:03:02,172 --> 01:03:03,193
- Road to recovery baby.

1331
01:03:03,193 --> 01:03:06,120
- [Tommy] I feel like
that risk is acceptable

1332
01:03:07,440 --> 01:03:11,572
but six months ago Quinn
Brett, a total badass,

1333
01:03:11,572 --> 01:03:16,572
fell off of the top of Boot
Flake and broke her back

1334
01:03:18,140 --> 01:03:19,893
doin exactly what we're doin.

1335
01:03:21,180 --> 01:03:26,100
- When Quinns accident happened,
my emergency pager goes off

1336
01:03:26,100 --> 01:03:28,550
and there's someone
who needs to be rescued

1337
01:03:28,550 --> 01:03:31,300
and it's one of our friends Quinn Brett

1338
01:03:31,300 --> 01:03:35,960
who had just taken the most
enormous fall you possibly could

1339
01:03:35,960 --> 01:03:39,520
off of the Boot Flake doin
the same tactic that Brad

1340
01:03:39,520 --> 01:03:44,170
uses to get up there
which is place no gear.

1341
01:03:44,170 --> 01:03:46,280
She had gotten all the way
to the end of the pitch,

1342
01:03:46,280 --> 01:03:50,900
somehow slipped and then
took the 100 foot fall

1343
01:03:50,900 --> 01:03:55,900
and hit the Texas Flake
and fell behind it.

1344
01:03:56,110 --> 01:03:57,480
I was told that she was dead

1345
01:03:57,480 --> 01:04:00,370
and that we were going
to do a body recovery.

1346
01:04:00,370 --> 01:04:02,730
We went up to get her down
and then it turned out

1347
01:04:02,730 --> 01:04:04,990
she was still alive and luckily they did

1348
01:04:04,990 --> 01:04:08,440
an amazing helicopter rescue,
got her off really quick

1349
01:04:08,440 --> 01:04:10,310
but she had shattered her spine

1350
01:04:10,310 --> 01:04:12,997
and probably would be paralyzed
for the rest of her life.

1351
01:04:12,997 --> 01:04:15,747
(dramatic music)

1352
01:04:20,580 --> 01:04:23,540
- I'd climbed the nose 12 or 13 times.

1353
01:04:23,540 --> 01:04:25,910
I did speed records on El Cap

1354
01:04:25,910 --> 01:04:28,720
and through other formations in the Valley

1355
01:04:28,720 --> 01:04:30,960
and in Zion and in Rocky.

1356
01:04:30,960 --> 01:04:33,920
For me, speed climbing, I
just really like moving.

1357
01:04:33,920 --> 01:04:35,670
Covering terrain really quickly,

1358
01:04:35,670 --> 01:04:38,670
you find yourself in what
they call the flow state.

1359
01:04:38,670 --> 01:04:40,600
Your moving, your moving,
your brain is firing,

1360
01:04:40,600 --> 01:04:42,020
your problem solving really quickly

1361
01:04:42,020 --> 01:04:44,170
and your body is moving
really efficiently.

1362
01:04:45,430 --> 01:04:47,160
Had I summited that day,

1363
01:04:47,160 --> 01:04:50,020
I would probably still be speed climbing.

1364
01:04:50,020 --> 01:04:52,760
I mean it was a pretty awesome feeling

1365
01:04:54,210 --> 01:04:56,593
until the moment I took a fall.

1366
01:04:57,890 --> 01:05:01,630
- Quinn lives in my home town
of Estes, see her all the time

1367
01:05:01,630 --> 01:05:04,677
and you see how her life has changed

1368
01:05:04,677 --> 01:05:07,660
and you're just like
wow that's pretty heavy.

1369
01:05:07,660 --> 01:05:11,910
So you know, I'm a father
now, I can't really do things

1370
01:05:11,910 --> 01:05:16,910
that are, you know I gotta
keep my seam pretty buttoned up

1371
01:05:17,130 --> 01:05:18,163
for the most part.

1372
01:05:20,177 --> 01:05:22,942
(birds chirping)

1373
01:05:22,942 --> 01:05:25,510
- [Alex] I remember my first
time going up these ledges.

1374
01:05:25,510 --> 01:05:27,229
- [Austin] Have fun guys.

1375
01:05:27,229 --> 01:05:28,770
- [Tommy] See ya.

1376
01:05:28,770 --> 01:05:29,720
- [Austin] Be safe.

1377
01:05:30,706 --> 01:05:32,956
- [Alex] My first time going
up these ledges it was like--

1378
01:05:32,956 --> 01:05:36,370
(dramatic music)

1379
01:05:36,370 --> 01:05:39,040
- [Alex] So we got Jim here
doing the rigging to help

1380
01:05:39,040 --> 01:05:40,550
get the cameraman in place.

1381
01:05:40,550 --> 01:05:41,860
How are we looking Jim?

1382
01:05:41,860 --> 01:05:42,840
- They're looking pretty good.

1383
01:05:42,840 --> 01:05:44,800
- [Alex] Yo Tommy, you in the Bolt Ladder?

1384
01:05:44,800 --> 01:05:46,953
- Yeah I like ran outta draws basically.

1385
01:05:47,850 --> 01:05:49,760
- It's a little strange to be up here

1386
01:05:49,760 --> 01:05:52,230
watching the guys who are
trying to break our record

1387
01:05:52,230 --> 01:05:54,560
but I'm psyched to see their tactics

1388
01:05:54,560 --> 01:05:56,513
and a little bit of heckling.

1389
01:05:57,450 --> 01:06:00,090
Tommy's kinda botching
it on the aid sequence.

1390
01:06:00,090 --> 01:06:01,950
- They have fucking, cruxing out, hold on.

1391
01:06:01,950 --> 01:06:02,783
- [Alex] What's that?

1392
01:06:02,783 --> 01:06:03,860
- Cruxing out, my fault.

1393
01:06:03,860 --> 01:06:05,460
- [Alex] I got you really tight.

1394
01:06:07,932 --> 01:06:09,745
- Can you take for a second?

1395
01:06:09,745 --> 01:06:11,423
- [Alex] Yeah, I gotcha.

1396
01:06:13,320 --> 01:06:14,500
- I gotta work this part out.

1397
01:06:14,500 --> 01:06:16,683
- [Alex] I placed a purple C three.

1398
01:06:17,530 --> 01:06:19,180
- Yeah I couldn't quite reach it.

1399
01:06:25,030 --> 01:06:27,700
- [Jim] Obviously Tommy
free climbs like a mad man

1400
01:06:27,700 --> 01:06:29,753
but to put it all out there
for something like this

1401
01:06:29,753 --> 01:06:31,730
is a little bit of a risk.

1402
01:06:31,730 --> 01:06:35,082
- [Alex] You shoulda saved
yourself one sling as an aider.

1403
01:06:35,082 --> 01:06:38,093
- Yeah, I should have an
aider, just remembered that.

1404
01:06:39,660 --> 01:06:41,230
- [Alex] Gumby in.

1405
01:06:41,230 --> 01:06:43,700
- The aid climbing fucks me up.

1406
01:06:43,700 --> 01:06:45,150
- [Alex] Yeah it always does.

1407
01:06:46,030 --> 01:06:47,730
- When I got up to the Boot Flake

1408
01:06:47,730 --> 01:06:49,683
I was thinking about Quinn.

1409
01:06:50,860 --> 01:06:54,583
I decided to put in a piece,
even if it slowed us down,

1410
01:06:56,620 --> 01:06:57,603
at least for now.

1411
01:06:59,590 --> 01:07:01,590
- [Alex] I'm not sure if
this is the best way but--

1412
01:07:01,590 --> 01:07:03,593
- Yeah I mean, we can tag it over.

1413
01:07:04,700 --> 01:07:05,533
Oh God.

1414
01:07:05,533 --> 01:07:06,366
- [Alex] I mean the thing is really

1415
01:07:06,366 --> 01:07:08,700
Tommy should just solo the Boot
but he just doesn't want to

1416
01:07:08,700 --> 01:07:10,910
which I totally understand and respect

1417
01:07:10,910 --> 01:07:13,040
but so in order for him
to get the cure back

1418
01:07:13,040 --> 01:07:15,540
means he has to lower it and
it's just a little junk showy.

1419
01:07:15,540 --> 01:07:17,884
- I'm good there, I don't
know, where do you go to,

1420
01:07:17,884 --> 01:07:19,170
you're at the King Swing right?

1421
01:07:19,170 --> 01:07:20,880
- No no, I'm above it now.

1422
01:07:20,880 --> 01:07:21,713
- Oh you are.

1423
01:07:21,713 --> 01:07:23,494
- So yeah I'll just lower you down to me.

1424
01:07:23,494 --> 01:07:25,370
Oh no wait, you just go back up

1425
01:07:25,370 --> 01:07:28,855
and it'll lower me right?

1426
01:07:28,855 --> 01:07:29,688
- Need to get you the gear though.

1427
01:07:29,688 --> 01:07:31,523
- Yeah you can just drop it down the line.

1428
01:07:33,207 --> 01:07:34,818
Oh, rack to the nuts.

1429
01:07:34,818 --> 01:07:35,651
(Tommy laughs)

1430
01:07:35,651 --> 01:07:36,583
Just the way I like it.

1431
01:07:37,800 --> 01:07:39,910
- I was wondering if
that was gonna happen.

1432
01:07:39,910 --> 01:07:40,830
- Hi guys.

1433
01:07:40,830 --> 01:07:41,663
- You.

1434
01:07:42,500 --> 01:07:43,780
- [Austin] How fast were you guys to here

1435
01:07:43,780 --> 01:07:44,970
on this go Tommy?

1436
01:07:44,970 --> 01:07:46,200
- 1, 38.

1437
01:07:46,200 --> 01:07:47,033
- [Austin] Nice.

1438
01:07:47,033 --> 01:07:49,060
Jim, how long did it take
you guys to get here?

1439
01:07:49,060 --> 01:07:51,523
- We're not fully race
pace yet and I think what--

1440
01:07:51,523 --> 01:07:52,610
- [Austin] 51 eh?

1441
01:07:52,610 --> 01:07:53,710
- 51 minutes (laughs).

1442
01:07:57,380 --> 01:08:00,690
- That seemed like, not
quite right you know?

1443
01:08:00,690 --> 01:08:01,990
- Yeah maybe not.

1444
01:08:01,990 --> 01:08:05,150
- We kinda need to start going
faster so we understand it.

1445
01:08:05,150 --> 01:08:06,287
You know what I mean,
like anybody could do

1446
01:08:06,287 --> 01:08:07,120
a four and a half hour run on The Nose

1447
01:08:07,120 --> 01:08:08,180
and be like that's cool.

1448
01:08:08,180 --> 01:08:09,013
- Anybody.

1449
01:08:09,013 --> 01:08:09,966
- Anybody.

1450
01:08:09,966 --> 01:08:11,077
- Yeah anybody can (laughs).

1451
01:08:11,077 --> 01:08:12,910
- [Austin] Anybody.

1452
01:08:12,910 --> 01:08:15,791
- Doing like a two, 50 lap
on The Nose is getting into

1453
01:08:15,791 --> 01:08:18,883
some real, like that's fast.

1454
01:08:20,420 --> 01:08:23,620
- Sweet, I'm honing in on
being an elite level climber.

1455
01:08:23,620 --> 01:08:24,920
- Yeah you're getting close.

1456
01:08:24,920 --> 01:08:26,167
- Yeah (laughs).

1457
01:08:26,167 --> 01:08:27,050
- I mean the Dawn Wall
thing was pretty cool

1458
01:08:27,050 --> 01:08:28,350
but it took 19 days.

1459
01:08:28,350 --> 01:08:29,183
- Yeah (laughs).

1460
01:08:30,600 --> 01:08:31,830
(dramatic music)

1461
01:08:31,830 --> 01:08:33,330
- We kinda need the smaller rack,

1462
01:08:33,330 --> 01:08:35,130
we need to drop a bunch of the cams.

1463
01:08:36,760 --> 01:08:37,710
Droppin number two.

1464
01:08:38,950 --> 01:08:40,330
- Yeah.

1465
01:08:40,330 --> 01:08:42,430
Drop the jacket, drop
the nuts, drop a grigri,

1466
01:08:42,430 --> 01:08:44,130
I feel like we could drop a micro.

1467
01:08:45,170 --> 01:08:46,030
- Okay.

1468
01:08:46,030 --> 01:08:47,310
- Micro off the rack.

1469
01:08:47,310 --> 01:08:49,350
Kinda wanna drop more cams.

1470
01:08:49,350 --> 01:08:50,600
Like could we drop a one?

1471
01:08:52,400 --> 01:08:54,633
- Uh.

1472
01:08:56,130 --> 01:08:57,010
- Yeah.

1473
01:08:57,010 --> 01:08:58,410
- That's not that many cams.

1474
01:09:00,320 --> 01:09:02,530
- [Alex] Five a.m and we're
about to go climb The Nose,

1475
01:09:02,530 --> 01:09:03,363
third time in three days.

1476
01:09:03,363 --> 01:09:06,470
- [Austin] So is this
strategy similar to yesterday?

1477
01:09:06,470 --> 01:09:08,440
- Yeah but less cams.

1478
01:09:08,440 --> 01:09:09,740
- Fewer cams.

1479
01:09:09,740 --> 01:09:10,573
- Fewer cams.

1480
01:09:11,434 --> 01:09:13,210
(speech drowned out by laughter)

1481
01:09:13,210 --> 01:09:15,160
- Make it a grammatically precise film.

1482
01:09:16,120 --> 01:09:19,350
Perfection starts with our spoken word

1483
01:09:19,350 --> 01:09:21,074
at the base of the root.

1484
01:09:21,074 --> 01:09:23,824
(dramatic music)

1485
01:09:26,040 --> 01:09:29,690
- The last couple days
I've been flowing better

1486
01:09:29,690 --> 01:09:31,397
and getting a little more fit.

1487
01:09:31,397 --> 01:09:34,147
(dramatic music)

1488
01:09:40,647 --> 01:09:45,177
I'd never realized how
freaking fun speed climbing is.

1489
01:09:45,177 --> 01:09:47,927
(dramatic music)

1490
01:09:49,760 --> 01:09:54,760
Climbing El Cap in a couple
of hours, that's unbelievable.

1491
01:09:55,903 --> 01:09:59,434
It's just gotta be the coolest
racetrack in the world.

1492
01:09:59,434 --> 01:10:01,097
- [Austin] Ya'll went 16 minutes faster.

1493
01:10:01,097 --> 01:10:01,940
- [Alex] Whoa buddy.

1494
01:10:01,940 --> 01:10:03,230
- [Austin] We do the
same split at the top,

1495
01:10:03,230 --> 01:10:04,350
we'll be at three hours.

1496
01:10:04,350 --> 01:10:05,650
- [Tommy] I'll do my best.

1497
01:10:10,660 --> 01:10:12,950
- [Alex] I mean the real
beauty of speed climbing,

1498
01:10:12,950 --> 01:10:14,703
it's like approaching perfection.

1499
01:10:15,760 --> 01:10:20,000
When you actually climb
smoothly up the whole wall,

1500
01:10:20,000 --> 01:10:23,370
there's no wasted movement,
no wasted gear, no wasted time

1501
01:10:24,510 --> 01:10:26,830
and you're in this perfectly
choreographed dance

1502
01:10:26,830 --> 01:10:27,663
with your partner.

1503
01:10:27,663 --> 01:10:29,880
Tell me when it's fixed!

1504
01:10:29,880 --> 01:10:31,053
It feels amazing.

1505
01:10:33,340 --> 01:10:35,500
- [Tommy] It's crazy climbing
with Alex honestly up there

1506
01:10:35,500 --> 01:10:37,410
it's a whole new level.

1507
01:10:37,410 --> 01:10:40,380
Like today he got kinda
psyched and started to go fast

1508
01:10:40,380 --> 01:10:42,133
and he was just running it out.

1509
01:10:43,480 --> 01:10:44,600
- [Alex] When you're going speed style

1510
01:10:44,600 --> 01:10:45,670
there are basically two options.

1511
01:10:45,670 --> 01:10:47,780
You can simul-climb or you can short-fix.

1512
01:10:47,780 --> 01:10:49,834
The leader gets to the anchor--

1513
01:10:49,834 --> 01:10:50,913
I'm tying it off.

1514
01:10:51,784 --> 01:10:53,783
And then pulls up all the extra rope,

1515
01:10:54,970 --> 01:10:57,424
ties the rope off to the anchor--

1516
01:10:57,424 --> 01:10:58,257
It's fixed!

1517
01:10:58,257 --> 01:11:00,163
The second starts to ascend the rope.

1518
01:11:01,310 --> 01:11:03,720
You just have 100 feet of
rope laying there in a pile

1519
01:11:03,720 --> 01:11:05,030
and you just start charging up the wall

1520
01:11:05,030 --> 01:11:06,330
with no protection really.

1521
01:11:07,260 --> 01:11:10,710
- [Tommy] Short fixing,
whenever you fall as the leader

1522
01:11:10,710 --> 01:11:13,610
you're looking at falling to
the end of that 100 foot rope

1523
01:11:15,490 --> 01:11:19,223
but Alex is willing to take the risk.

1524
01:11:20,190 --> 01:11:25,190
He's so different in that way,
like I've fallen 50 feet plus

1525
01:11:26,180 --> 01:11:29,118
probably 10 times on El Cap or something.

1526
01:11:29,118 --> 01:11:30,633
Alex never has.

1527
01:11:31,510 --> 01:11:34,650
He doesn't wanna fall at all
and he doesn't fall at all.

1528
01:11:34,650 --> 01:11:35,683
- [Austin] What was your time?

1529
01:11:35,683 --> 01:11:36,820
- Two, 57.

1530
01:11:36,820 --> 01:11:38,660
- I'm feeling pretty encouraged at two, 57

1531
01:11:38,660 --> 01:11:40,660
because Alex climbed
the route with his shoes

1532
01:11:40,660 --> 01:11:44,690
looking like that and it was really wet

1533
01:11:44,690 --> 01:11:46,707
and it was our third
day in a row (laughs).

1534
01:11:47,790 --> 01:11:49,513
- [Alex] It's just so ridiculous
to be at the top of El Cap

1535
01:11:49,513 --> 01:11:51,066
at nine in the morning.

1536
01:11:51,066 --> 01:11:53,100
- I know, love that.

1537
01:11:53,100 --> 01:11:54,050
- Some of these today felt like,

1538
01:11:54,050 --> 01:11:55,420
less grueling then yesterday.

1539
01:11:55,420 --> 01:11:56,253
- Yeah I totally agree.

1540
01:11:56,253 --> 01:11:57,930
- Like I felt sorta tired and slow

1541
01:11:57,930 --> 01:12:00,210
but yeah man it didn't feel--

1542
01:12:00,210 --> 01:12:02,060
I kinda think we can go sub-two dude.

1543
01:12:02,910 --> 01:12:04,071
We'll see.

1544
01:12:04,071 --> 01:12:04,904
(Tommy laughs)

1545
01:12:04,904 --> 01:12:06,520
- That would be awesome, oh my God.

1546
01:12:06,520 --> 01:12:10,280
Breaking this record, it
feels possible I think

1547
01:12:10,280 --> 01:12:13,833
but Alex really wants to
do it in under two hours.

1548
01:12:16,944 --> 01:12:18,620
It's gonna be hard.

1549
01:12:18,620 --> 01:12:20,840
- I've always sort of had the
life goal of climbing The Nose

1550
01:12:20,840 --> 01:12:24,160
sub two hours, it seems possible

1551
01:12:24,160 --> 01:12:26,890
but it seems kinda crazy, really hard.

1552
01:12:26,890 --> 01:12:28,700
Kinda like it's a two hour marathon.

1553
01:12:28,700 --> 01:12:30,980
It's a big psychological barrier.

1554
01:12:30,980 --> 01:12:34,000
Going sub two, I think
we'd be pretty proud

1555
01:12:34,000 --> 01:12:36,782
but we'll see.

1556
01:12:36,782 --> 01:12:39,580
(dramatic music)

1557
01:12:39,580 --> 01:12:40,460
- Ready?

1558
01:12:40,460 --> 01:12:41,293
Go.

1559
01:12:42,560 --> 01:12:45,550
- [Alex] Started exactly six,
20 we are off to the races.

1560
01:12:45,550 --> 01:12:48,160
- [Tommy] This time we pushed
it a little bit harder.

1561
01:12:48,160 --> 01:12:49,053
- [Alex] Nice Tommy.

1562
01:12:50,757 --> 01:12:52,683
About to say, you're looking pretty good.

1563
01:12:52,683 --> 01:12:54,770
- [Austin] Yeah.

1564
01:12:54,770 --> 01:12:57,480
- By their fourth attempt
Alex and Tommy were moving

1565
01:12:57,480 --> 01:13:00,460
way faster, I was across the valley,

1566
01:13:00,460 --> 01:13:02,010
filming with a telephoto lense.

1567
01:13:02,010 --> 01:13:03,010
- [Stranger] You got a friend up there?

1568
01:13:03,010 --> 01:13:05,380
- [Austin] Yeah they're
trying to break the record.

1569
01:13:05,380 --> 01:13:07,670
- [Stranger] Oh sweet, oh damn, who is it?

1570
01:13:07,670 --> 01:13:09,390
- [Austin] It's Alex
Honnald and Tommy Caldwell.

1571
01:13:09,390 --> 01:13:11,570
- [Stranger] Oh okay, never heard of 'em.

1572
01:13:11,570 --> 01:13:12,403
- [Austin] They're trying to make a name

1573
01:13:12,403 --> 01:13:13,909
for themselves really.

1574
01:13:13,909 --> 01:13:17,260
Tommy was cruisin, I mean
I was having to like jostle

1575
01:13:17,260 --> 01:13:18,560
and move around the camera a bunch

1576
01:13:18,560 --> 01:13:20,010
just to try keep up with him.

1577
01:13:20,010 --> 01:13:23,120
Oh nice here he goes, about
to charge the Stove Legs.

1578
01:13:23,120 --> 01:13:24,740
- [Tommy] I was getting
a little too psyched up,

1579
01:13:24,740 --> 01:13:28,010
like I was letting it get
out of my comfort zone

1580
01:13:28,010 --> 01:13:29,480
in terms of how fast I was going.

1581
01:13:29,480 --> 01:13:31,280
- [Alex] Gonna have to untie
and pull the rope through

1582
01:13:31,280 --> 01:13:33,620
to undo one prusiks we do.

1583
01:13:33,620 --> 01:13:35,370
So I had just taken the grigri off.

1584
01:13:37,630 --> 01:13:40,400
- [Austin] Let's see, there he is.

1585
01:13:40,400 --> 01:13:42,300
- [Tommy] And I just like slipped out.

1586
01:13:49,090 --> 01:13:50,140
- [Austin] Holy shit.

1587
01:13:52,550 --> 01:13:55,942
Dude Tommy just took a
fucking monstrous whipper,

1588
01:13:55,942 --> 01:13:57,750
like 100 feet.

1589
01:13:57,750 --> 01:13:59,280
I'm like, I can't tell,

1590
01:13:59,280 --> 01:14:02,170
he's climbing back up to Alex right now.

1591
01:14:02,170 --> 01:14:04,993
It was like right when I
was shifting the frame.

1592
01:14:05,940 --> 01:14:07,620
- [Tommy] I just fell
until I yanked against Alex

1593
01:14:07,620 --> 01:14:09,720
who's tied into the other end of the rope.

1594
01:14:11,580 --> 01:14:12,563
And then I just started
climbing right away.

1595
01:14:12,563 --> 01:14:14,770
- [Alex] Dude you whipped 100
feet, you were literally like

1596
01:14:14,770 --> 01:14:17,310
oh I hate that I always do
that and then you swung over

1597
01:14:17,310 --> 01:14:20,458
and punched back through
and I was like oh my God,

1598
01:14:20,458 --> 01:14:21,458
that was outrageous.

1599
01:14:23,080 --> 01:14:25,130
- [Austin] It's crazy, even
with taking a huge fall,

1600
01:14:25,130 --> 01:14:29,483
they're still gonna maybe go
faster then they have before.

1601
01:14:31,090 --> 01:14:32,510
- [Alex] After Tommy took his 100 footer,

1602
01:14:32,510 --> 01:14:34,440
up higher on the route
I slipped out of a crack

1603
01:14:34,440 --> 01:14:36,450
while short fixed and probably would have

1604
01:14:36,450 --> 01:14:41,450
taken a 50 or 60 footer but I
caught the rope with my hands.

1605
01:14:45,580 --> 01:14:48,270
I just don't really know, I
don't really know what happened

1606
01:14:48,270 --> 01:14:50,000
but I did rope burn my hand a little bit

1607
01:14:50,000 --> 01:14:51,650
and tore a chunk out of a finger.

1608
01:14:58,620 --> 01:15:02,287
(rope sliding against rock)

1609
01:15:03,631 --> 01:15:05,610
(Alex breathing heavily)

1610
01:15:05,610 --> 01:15:06,443
Yeah buddy!

1611
01:15:08,110 --> 01:15:08,943
Nice work.

1612
01:15:08,943 --> 01:15:12,360
Two, 31, that was a lot faster

1613
01:15:12,360 --> 01:15:17,360
but really like not that
cool, we kinda botched.

1614
01:15:18,810 --> 01:15:20,070
- [Austin] Does it hurt?

1615
01:15:20,070 --> 01:15:23,500
- Yeah I mean it burns, I mean
it's like a huge open hole.

1616
01:15:23,500 --> 01:15:25,010
On the other hand, I self arrest,

1617
01:15:25,010 --> 01:15:26,940
I basically caught the
rope and caught myself

1618
01:15:26,940 --> 01:15:28,770
rather than take a hundred footer

1619
01:15:28,770 --> 01:15:30,650
which is definitely a big plus.

1620
01:15:30,650 --> 01:15:32,950
- Yeah we fell in the same spot.

1621
01:15:32,950 --> 01:15:34,193
- Was that the exact same spot?

1622
01:15:34,193 --> 01:15:35,026
- Yeah.

1623
01:15:35,026 --> 01:15:36,156
- That's crazy.
- Exact same spot.

1624
01:15:36,156 --> 01:15:37,033
- That's crazy.

1625
01:15:37,033 --> 01:15:38,190
- Dude it was at least a hundred feet.

1626
01:15:38,190 --> 01:15:41,100
I was like, I'm still
falling, I'm still falling,

1627
01:15:41,100 --> 01:15:42,960
I was like I hope Alex didn't just untie

1628
01:15:42,960 --> 01:15:44,600
and I just like fall to my death.

1629
01:15:44,600 --> 01:15:46,873
I had time to think about all that.

1630
01:15:48,470 --> 01:15:50,350
- Doesn't feel quite as fun today.

1631
01:15:50,350 --> 01:15:51,783
- No it was minorly traumatizing.

1632
01:15:51,783 --> 01:15:54,900
- We're broke now, we're kinda horrified.

1633
01:15:54,900 --> 01:15:56,950
Man oh man, what a morning.

1634
01:15:56,950 --> 01:15:57,783
- Yup.

1635
01:15:59,480 --> 01:16:00,410
- It's a little horrifying
too 'cause the people

1636
01:16:00,410 --> 01:16:03,170
that are like watching today
being like oh this is cool,

1637
01:16:03,170 --> 01:16:04,190
and we're both like--

1638
01:16:04,190 --> 01:16:06,510
- I wonder if anybody was
watching when I fell massively.

1639
01:16:06,510 --> 01:16:08,353
- I know, I hope nobody saw that shit.

1640
01:16:09,333 --> 01:16:10,166
- Yeah.

1641
01:16:10,166 --> 01:16:13,596
(children speaking over each other)

1642
01:16:13,596 --> 01:16:15,179
- From the outside.

1643
01:16:17,080 --> 01:16:22,080
- Okay, I'm gonna get you, I'm
gonna get you, who's calling?

1644
01:16:23,820 --> 01:16:24,653
- [Youngest Child] Me.

1645
01:16:24,653 --> 01:16:25,486
- Who is?

1646
01:16:25,486 --> 01:16:26,380
Your calling?

1647
01:16:26,380 --> 01:16:27,213
Hello?

1648
01:16:28,690 --> 01:16:30,659
Hey how's it going?

1649
01:16:30,659 --> 01:16:32,110
- Daddy!

1650
01:16:32,110 --> 01:16:33,859
- Wanna say hi to daddy?

1651
01:16:33,859 --> 01:16:36,207
- Hi daddy, hi daddy.

1652
01:16:36,207 --> 01:16:38,980
- How fast did you climb today?

1653
01:16:38,980 --> 01:16:41,072
- [Tommy On Phone] We
climbed it in two hours

1654
01:16:41,072 --> 01:16:42,795
and 31 minutes.

1655
01:16:42,795 --> 01:16:44,128
- How'd it go today?

1656
01:16:44,128 --> 01:16:45,628
- [Oldest Child] I wanna be a base jumper!

1657
01:16:45,628 --> 01:16:46,640
- [Tommy On Phone] It was definitely

1658
01:16:46,640 --> 01:16:48,083
slightly less than ideal.

1659
01:16:50,287 --> 01:16:52,813
I took a really big
fall and Alex also fell

1660
01:16:53,950 --> 01:16:56,750
and grabbed the rope and tore
a huge hole in his finger.

1661
01:16:58,164 --> 01:16:58,997
- Awesome.

1662
01:17:00,983 --> 01:17:03,090
Are you okay?

1663
01:17:03,090 --> 01:17:05,540
- [Tommy On Phone] Yeah, yeah, I was safe.

1664
01:17:05,540 --> 01:17:08,240
We've got it set up so
we're only running it out

1665
01:17:08,240 --> 01:17:10,545
where it's clean and stuff.

1666
01:17:10,545 --> 01:17:14,430
So taking a big fall
is, not that dangerous.

1667
01:17:14,430 --> 01:17:17,920
- When Tommy mentioned the speed record,

1668
01:17:17,920 --> 01:17:21,195
I wasn't really attracted to the idea.

1669
01:17:21,195 --> 01:17:23,120
(Tommys speech muffled on phone)

1670
01:17:23,120 --> 01:17:26,460
When Quinn had her accident
and then Hans fell off The Nose

1671
01:17:26,460 --> 01:17:28,550
it was just an eye opener,

1672
01:17:28,550 --> 01:17:30,880
like oh man you can get really messed up

1673
01:17:31,840 --> 01:17:34,890
but Tommy loves climbing with Alex,

1674
01:17:34,890 --> 01:17:36,690
they're kind of unstoppable together

1675
01:17:36,690 --> 01:17:39,140
and they truly believe it's safe.

1676
01:17:39,140 --> 01:17:41,950
I don't know speed climbing very well

1677
01:17:41,950 --> 01:17:44,370
but my understanding is like
you guys are gonna climb fast

1678
01:17:44,370 --> 01:17:46,250
and you have this dialed and
you know what you're doing

1679
01:17:46,250 --> 01:17:50,395
so you just don't fall but
then they both fell in one day.

1680
01:17:50,395 --> 01:17:51,682
Yeah.

1681
01:17:51,682 --> 01:17:53,600
- [Tommy On Phone] But we're
not gonna do that anymore.

1682
01:17:53,600 --> 01:17:55,313
- Yeah but how do you avoid it?

1683
01:18:02,710 --> 01:18:04,970
- After taking those falls,

1684
01:18:04,970 --> 01:18:08,573
we felt like we needed to
dial it back a little bit.

1685
01:18:09,690 --> 01:18:11,190
- This is where I whipped the other day

1686
01:18:11,190 --> 01:18:12,420
and Tommy whipped here.

1687
01:18:12,420 --> 01:18:14,923
- [Tommy] Even Alex
seemed a bit shaken up.

1688
01:18:28,917 --> 01:18:32,834
- Gives the wrong impression
of speed climbing.

1689
01:18:34,792 --> 01:18:35,625
Ah, two, 51.

1690
01:18:35,625 --> 01:18:37,280
- We didn't take any
hundred foot falls today.

1691
01:18:37,280 --> 01:18:39,340
- Yeah and no injuries.

1692
01:18:39,340 --> 01:18:41,319
- Tommy and Alex, they're goin fast

1693
01:18:41,319 --> 01:18:45,240
but there's such a difference
between going three hours fast

1694
01:18:45,240 --> 01:18:46,270
to breaking the record.

1695
01:18:46,270 --> 01:18:48,070
- I think it might be
possible to get there

1696
01:18:48,070 --> 01:18:49,690
without redlining--

1697
01:18:49,690 --> 01:18:52,210
- They kinda gotta get it
together pretty quick here

1698
01:18:52,210 --> 01:18:55,590
I mean it's mid May and
if it drags on into June,

1699
01:18:55,590 --> 01:18:57,967
it gets hot and it gets crowded.

1700
01:18:57,967 --> 01:18:59,029
- [Alex] Don't let it go.

1701
01:18:59,029 --> 01:19:02,253
- The Nose has just become
so incredible popular,

1702
01:19:04,440 --> 01:19:06,720
everyone wants to do The Nose.

1703
01:19:06,720 --> 01:19:09,070
So you just get people
from all over the world.

1704
01:19:09,980 --> 01:19:11,443
It's packed.

1705
01:19:13,270 --> 01:19:16,445
- Wouldn't be The Nose if we
weren't jocking for position.

1706
01:19:16,445 --> 01:19:17,278
- [Austin] Get out of the way.

1707
01:19:17,278 --> 01:19:19,409
- [Brad] The wall climbers come up

1708
01:19:19,409 --> 01:19:23,034
and it gets frustrating
passing five to 10 parties.

1709
01:19:23,034 --> 01:19:26,261
(speaking foreign language)

1710
01:19:26,261 --> 01:19:27,461
- Go Tommy go!

1711
01:19:27,461 --> 01:19:28,294
- Gracias.

1712
01:19:29,580 --> 01:19:32,340
- Kinda smells, reminds me of urine.

1713
01:19:32,340 --> 01:19:33,580
Welcome to The Nose huh.

1714
01:19:33,580 --> 01:19:35,220
- It really is kind of a challenge to try

1715
01:19:35,220 --> 01:19:37,340
to not get stuck behind people.

1716
01:19:37,340 --> 01:19:41,140
The strategy is, you don't ask to pass

1717
01:19:41,140 --> 01:19:46,140
but you're really friendly,
you're like what's up guys?

1718
01:19:46,150 --> 01:19:48,810
Oh you're from Germany, sick, cool, yeah,

1719
01:19:48,810 --> 01:19:50,030
is it your first time out here?

1720
01:19:50,030 --> 01:19:51,450
And you're talking to them the whole time

1721
01:19:51,450 --> 01:19:53,720
and meanwhile you're just
kinda slowly climbing through

1722
01:19:53,720 --> 01:19:56,510
their junction, before
they know you're above 'em

1723
01:19:56,510 --> 01:19:58,670
and you're like all right
guys, have fun, good luck

1724
01:19:58,670 --> 01:20:00,255
and you just keep climbing.

1725
01:20:00,255 --> 01:20:03,720
(speaking foreign language)

1726
01:20:03,720 --> 01:20:04,553
- Thanks man.

1727
01:20:04,553 --> 01:20:05,450
Where are you from?

1728
01:20:05,450 --> 01:20:06,283
- Netherlands.

1729
01:20:08,400 --> 01:20:09,233
- Have fun.

1730
01:20:09,233 --> 01:20:10,066
- You too.

1731
01:20:12,783 --> 01:20:13,700
- What was the time?

1732
01:20:13,700 --> 01:20:16,146
- Two, 25.
- Two, 25.

1733
01:20:16,146 --> 01:20:16,979
- [Austin] Two, 25?

1734
01:20:16,979 --> 01:20:18,027
- Yeah.

1735
01:20:18,027 --> 01:20:18,860
- [Austin] Damn.

1736
01:20:18,860 --> 01:20:19,693
- Two, 25 is pretty good.

1737
01:20:19,693 --> 01:20:20,990
Should we go down and eat a sandwich?

1738
01:20:20,990 --> 01:20:22,184
Let's go see your kids.

1739
01:20:22,184 --> 01:20:23,017
- I know, my kids!

1740
01:20:23,017 --> 01:20:24,033
- I haven't seen your family yet.

1741
01:20:30,451 --> 01:20:34,451
(young girl speaking gibberish)

1742
01:20:44,003 --> 01:20:45,605
- Hi (laughs).

1743
01:20:45,605 --> 01:20:46,438
- Hey pits.

1744
01:20:46,438 --> 01:20:47,271
- Hey baby.

1745
01:20:47,271 --> 01:20:48,104
- Hey how's it going?

1746
01:20:48,104 --> 01:20:49,127
- Good, you remember me?

1747
01:20:49,127 --> 01:20:49,960
- I do, how you feeling?

1748
01:20:49,960 --> 01:20:50,900
- Good, did you watch us at all?

1749
01:20:50,900 --> 01:20:52,932
- [Rebecca] Think I saw
you towards the top.

1750
01:20:52,932 --> 01:20:53,765
- [Brad] How's it going?

1751
01:20:53,765 --> 01:20:55,094
- [Tommy] Oh yeah, Brad.

1752
01:20:55,094 --> 01:20:56,060
- Did you guys do The Nose?

1753
01:20:56,060 --> 01:20:58,507
- Our time today was two, 25.

1754
01:20:58,507 --> 01:20:59,610
- What was your time?

1755
01:20:59,610 --> 01:21:01,534
- Five minutes away, yeah.

1756
01:21:01,534 --> 01:21:03,590
(dramatic music)

1757
01:21:03,590 --> 01:21:04,920
- [Tommy] So what are we doin?

1758
01:21:04,920 --> 01:21:06,490
Are we goin all?

1759
01:21:06,490 --> 01:21:07,360
- Let's go fast, yeah.

1760
01:21:07,360 --> 01:21:09,620
- Go fast, let's feel the burn.

1761
01:21:09,620 --> 01:21:12,990
(birds chirping)

1762
01:21:12,990 --> 01:21:16,457
- We gotta make sure they
start at the exact same foot

1763
01:21:16,457 --> 01:21:18,240
of the root that we start at.

1764
01:21:18,240 --> 01:21:20,813
Making sure all the clocks work.

1765
01:21:21,880 --> 01:21:23,450
- Seems like they might break the record

1766
01:21:23,450 --> 01:21:24,930
but we'll see, it's a little hot

1767
01:21:24,930 --> 01:21:26,310
and there's some parties on the wall

1768
01:21:26,310 --> 01:21:29,863
so it might be a little
more difficult today.

1769
01:21:31,310 --> 01:21:33,730
When me and Brad were going
for it we were nervous,

1770
01:21:33,730 --> 01:21:36,730
like oh boy this is gonna be stressful.

1771
01:21:36,730 --> 01:21:39,450
Today, yeah these guys are
the ones with all the stress.

1772
01:21:39,450 --> 01:21:40,990
- Oh we don't have any stress.

1773
01:21:40,990 --> 01:21:42,810
- We just get to chill and watch.

1774
01:21:42,810 --> 01:21:43,643
That's good.

1775
01:21:43,643 --> 01:21:45,460
- Did you guys start from
this pedestal or that one?

1776
01:21:45,460 --> 01:21:46,880
- Brad would monkey up this way.

1777
01:21:46,880 --> 01:21:48,650
- It kinda makes more
sense to start right here

1778
01:21:48,650 --> 01:21:49,750
and just bam, bam, bam.

1779
01:21:49,750 --> 01:21:51,850
- I mean you're the professional (laughs).

1780
01:21:59,390 --> 01:22:00,223
- Okay, ready?

1781
01:22:01,720 --> 01:22:02,581
- Go.

1782
01:22:02,581 --> 01:22:05,331
(dramatic music)

1783
01:22:06,290 --> 01:22:07,180
- [Alex] Remember the Hans saying,

1784
01:22:07,180 --> 01:22:11,369
start out slow, go, go, go,
start out fast, just won't last.

1785
01:22:11,369 --> 01:22:13,061
- And there they go, history begins.

1786
01:22:13,061 --> 01:22:15,811
(dramatic music)

1787
01:22:16,871 --> 01:22:18,040
(speech muffled by wind)

1788
01:22:18,040 --> 01:22:19,116
- [Jim] Taking the swing.

1789
01:22:19,116 --> 01:22:20,089
- [Brad] Oh yeah.

1790
01:22:20,089 --> 01:22:22,762
(Jim cheering)

1791
01:22:22,762 --> 01:22:25,512
(dramatic music)

1792
01:22:29,488 --> 01:22:34,488
♪ Clock started, nothing
left but tie me down ♪

1793
01:22:37,451 --> 01:22:40,201
(dramatic music)

1794
01:22:52,328 --> 01:22:54,678
- All right Tommy, tell me
when you get to that piece

1795
01:22:54,678 --> 01:22:56,814
and I'll swing over.

1796
01:22:56,814 --> 01:22:57,731
- Okay man.

1797
01:22:59,491 --> 01:23:03,824
♪ We can call the whole thing, down ♪

1798
01:23:05,215 --> 01:23:06,251
- [Alex] Nice work Tommy.

1799
01:23:06,251 --> 01:23:07,918
- [Tommy] Thank you.

1800
01:23:09,360 --> 01:23:11,240
- Tommy and Alex left all
their gear at the base

1801
01:23:11,240 --> 01:23:13,067
so we're bootying it (laughs).

1802
01:23:14,675 --> 01:23:16,180
They don't need it, they get free stuff

1803
01:23:16,180 --> 01:23:19,067
but me, I work and steal
for my living (laughs).

1804
01:23:21,610 --> 01:23:22,450
- Let's see what their time is.

1805
01:23:22,450 --> 01:23:24,588
- They did really fast on the sickle bit.

1806
01:23:24,588 --> 01:23:27,380
- They're at 30, almost 38 minutes.

1807
01:23:27,380 --> 01:23:29,860
- [Austin] That morning
there was an audience.

1808
01:23:29,860 --> 01:23:32,200
Becca was there with
Alex's girlfriend Sanni.

1809
01:23:32,200 --> 01:23:33,033
- Go daddy!

1810
01:23:35,630 --> 01:23:36,463
- I think he heard you.

1811
01:23:36,463 --> 01:23:38,420
- They got Hans sitting out there,

1812
01:23:38,420 --> 01:23:40,301
broken ankles and all.

1813
01:23:40,301 --> 01:23:42,228
(Hans cheering)

1814
01:23:42,228 --> 01:23:43,061
(Brad booing)

1815
01:23:43,061 --> 01:23:44,453
And Brad and Jim,

1816
01:23:46,010 --> 01:23:47,240
secretly hoping that they'd watch them

1817
01:23:47,240 --> 01:23:49,018
make a bunch of mistakes.

1818
01:23:49,018 --> 01:23:51,340
Is there a part of you guys,
like I hope they stubbied?

1819
01:23:51,340 --> 01:23:52,650
- No.

1820
01:23:52,650 --> 01:23:53,483
- Yeah.

1821
01:23:53,483 --> 01:23:54,479
- I don't think so.

1822
01:23:54,479 --> 01:23:55,312
(both laughing)

1823
01:23:55,312 --> 01:23:56,623
- Do you see daddy?

1824
01:23:58,130 --> 01:24:00,329
Do you see daddy in there?

1825
01:24:00,329 --> 01:24:02,229
- Fit in the boot.

1826
01:24:02,229 --> 01:24:03,900
- [Rebecca And Sonni]
He's on the boot (laughs)

1827
01:24:03,900 --> 01:24:06,070
- Do you know where the boot is kids?

1828
01:24:06,070 --> 01:24:08,483
You can see a perfect
little boot up there.

1829
01:24:11,610 --> 01:24:14,520
- [Tommy] The Boot Flake is
always an exciting moment.

1830
01:24:14,520 --> 01:24:16,476
- [Alex] Yeah this is my favorite pitch.

1831
01:24:16,476 --> 01:24:17,309
- [Tommy] Yeah.

1832
01:24:17,309 --> 01:24:18,142
- [Alex] Yeah.

1833
01:24:18,142 --> 01:24:19,890
- [Tommy] It's like my
least favorite pitch.

1834
01:24:19,890 --> 01:24:22,763
Just get grip, thinking about
quitting when I'm up there.

1835
01:24:22,763 --> 01:24:25,930
(slow dramatic music)

1836
01:24:37,430 --> 01:24:39,010
- [Jim] Tommy places a cam on the boot.

1837
01:24:39,010 --> 01:24:40,703
- [Brad] Oh yup, there he goes.

1838
01:24:40,703 --> 01:24:42,286
- What is he doing?

1839
01:24:43,980 --> 01:24:45,600
I bet that makes Becca happy.

1840
01:24:45,600 --> 01:24:46,433
- Yup.

1841
01:24:48,480 --> 01:24:49,700
- [Rebecca] Give it to me kiddo,

1842
01:24:49,700 --> 01:24:51,150
daddy's standing on the boot.

1843
01:24:52,864 --> 01:24:54,910
(spectators cheering)

1844
01:24:54,910 --> 01:24:56,270
- [Jim] He lowers down to grab it

1845
01:24:56,270 --> 01:24:57,713
before Alex does the swing.

1846
01:24:59,360 --> 01:25:02,550
That's definitely a
time waster right there.

1847
01:25:02,550 --> 01:25:03,750
- [Brad] Yeah.

1848
01:25:03,750 --> 01:25:05,360
- Okay here we go.

1849
01:25:05,360 --> 01:25:06,510
- [Tommy] We've been checking the time

1850
01:25:06,510 --> 01:25:08,380
after Alex does the King Swing,

1851
01:25:08,380 --> 01:25:10,070
it was an hour and one minute.

1852
01:25:10,070 --> 01:25:12,520
- [Alex] We were five
minutes faster than before.

1853
01:25:12,520 --> 01:25:14,150
I just knew it was game
on, it was time to go

1854
01:25:14,150 --> 01:25:15,100
as fast as I could.

1855
01:25:16,260 --> 01:25:19,140
- Oh man they got someone
starting up the Great Roof

1856
01:25:19,140 --> 01:25:21,283
in a minute, might get hosed.

1857
01:25:22,720 --> 01:25:24,410
- When I was getting up to the Great Roof,

1858
01:25:24,410 --> 01:25:28,010
these two Bask women who we
passed twice before in the week

1859
01:25:28,010 --> 01:25:30,360
had just finished aid climbing the pitch

1860
01:25:30,360 --> 01:25:32,170
and so there was already
rope hanging down it

1861
01:25:32,170 --> 01:25:33,220
and gear all over it.

1862
01:25:34,130 --> 01:25:37,797
(speaking foreign language)

1863
01:25:41,300 --> 01:25:43,180
It's mildly annoying when
you can't put your fingers

1864
01:25:43,180 --> 01:25:44,823
into the places you want but it means that

1865
01:25:44,823 --> 01:25:48,117
I can just pull on their quick
draws and just climb through.

1866
01:25:48,117 --> 01:25:50,534
- [Foreign Woman] Go Alex go!

1867
01:25:55,178 --> 01:25:58,845
(speaking foreign language)

1868
01:26:01,542 --> 01:26:02,375
- [Tommy] What's that?

1869
01:26:02,375 --> 01:26:03,208
- Watch me good here.

1870
01:26:08,743 --> 01:26:12,410
(speaking foreign language)

1871
01:26:15,680 --> 01:26:17,100
Got the lines fixed Tommy!

1872
01:26:17,100 --> 01:26:18,913
- [Tommy] Alex gets to the
anchor, short fixes there

1873
01:26:18,913 --> 01:26:21,243
and then I just jug as fast as I can.

1874
01:26:22,794 --> 01:26:26,461
(speaking foreign language)

1875
01:26:28,200 --> 01:26:31,110
- When I got to the Great
Roof, we're right on pace

1876
01:26:31,110 --> 01:26:34,250
for the record but then I
just start getting tangled

1877
01:26:34,250 --> 01:26:36,373
in the equipment from the Bask ladies.

1878
01:26:37,471 --> 01:26:38,304
- [Foreign Woman] Go Tommy go!

1879
01:26:38,304 --> 01:26:40,510
- I have to switch my whole system.

1880
01:26:40,510 --> 01:26:42,220
Putting jumars on, taking 'em off,

1881
01:26:42,220 --> 01:26:43,880
figuring out where to put 'em,

1882
01:26:43,880 --> 01:26:46,057
there's this other rope, I'm
worried it's gonna get stuck,

1883
01:26:46,057 --> 01:26:47,523
just clustering.

1884
01:27:04,010 --> 01:27:05,390
Oh fuck.

1885
01:27:05,390 --> 01:27:07,800
I lowered out and then
I went to pull the loop

1886
01:27:07,800 --> 01:27:09,560
but it was just caught.

1887
01:27:09,560 --> 01:27:12,570
The only quick solution I
could think of was to untie

1888
01:27:12,570 --> 01:27:15,630
and pull the rope as fast as
I could and then tie back in.

1889
01:27:15,630 --> 01:27:18,990
Alex had gotten stopped because
he didn't have any rope left

1890
01:27:18,990 --> 01:27:20,430
he's just kinda like waiting for me

1891
01:27:20,430 --> 01:27:22,754
right in the middle of
the cruxxed out pitch.

1892
01:27:22,754 --> 01:27:23,910
- [Tommy] Something got
twisted in that anchor

1893
01:27:23,910 --> 01:27:25,384
I have to untie.

1894
01:27:25,384 --> 01:27:26,217
- [Alex] Sorry about that.

1895
01:27:26,217 --> 01:27:27,410
No, it's not your fault.

1896
01:27:27,410 --> 01:27:28,606
- What's going on?

1897
01:27:28,606 --> 01:27:29,690
- You know where they're at Hans?

1898
01:27:29,690 --> 01:27:31,360
- Alex is right where I fell.

1899
01:27:34,330 --> 01:27:39,105
- So I pull my end then I just
start trying to tie back in.

1900
01:27:39,105 --> 01:27:41,855
(dramatic music)

1901
01:27:43,320 --> 01:27:44,630
- [Alex] Every time you
speed climb The Nose

1902
01:27:44,630 --> 01:27:45,670
you run into situations

1903
01:27:45,670 --> 01:27:47,270
that you haven't necessarily
dealt with before

1904
01:27:47,270 --> 01:27:48,830
there's always some kind of weird thing

1905
01:27:48,830 --> 01:27:51,320
and the real test is how
quickly you can deal with it

1906
01:27:51,320 --> 01:27:54,200
and manage and then just
keep moving forward.

1907
01:27:54,200 --> 01:27:55,560
It was definitely the right call for Tommy

1908
01:27:55,560 --> 01:27:57,310
just to look at, be like oh
here's what I need to do,

1909
01:27:57,310 --> 01:28:00,106
untie, pull, pull, pull,
retie, here we go, keep going.

1910
01:28:00,106 --> 01:28:02,316
It's like, good improvising by Tommy.

1911
01:28:02,316 --> 01:28:05,066
(dramatic music)

1912
01:28:08,240 --> 01:28:09,493
- Oh shit.

1913
01:28:09,493 --> 01:28:12,243
(dramatic music)

1914
01:28:15,010 --> 01:28:16,431
- [Alex] Nice work, way to deal.

1915
01:28:16,431 --> 01:28:17,264
- Okay, adios.

1916
01:28:17,264 --> 01:28:18,431
- Okay, adios.

1917
01:28:19,886 --> 01:28:21,510
- [Tommy] That probably
wasted two minutes.

1918
01:28:21,510 --> 01:28:22,810
- [Austin] Look at him go.

1919
01:28:24,440 --> 01:28:27,310
- [Tommy] But you know Alex
just started to boogey up

1920
01:28:27,310 --> 01:28:30,823
the steep cracks at the top
like nobody else ever had.

1921
01:28:32,050 --> 01:28:34,860
Climbing like a beast in no fall terrain

1922
01:28:35,700 --> 01:28:37,403
and we made up tons of time there.

1923
01:28:38,280 --> 01:28:40,560
- [Alex] On each of the last six pitches

1924
01:28:40,560 --> 01:28:43,000
I have positions where
I could probably take

1925
01:28:43,000 --> 01:28:44,653
a hundred to a 200 foot fall.

1926
01:28:47,440 --> 01:28:49,160
So I didn't look at any splits or anything

1927
01:28:49,160 --> 01:28:50,670
you don't really wanna
think about pace to much

1928
01:28:50,670 --> 01:28:53,300
you wanna just go as hard
as you can and just execute.

1929
01:28:53,300 --> 01:28:54,620
Just focus on what we're doing

1930
01:28:54,620 --> 01:28:56,900
and then just find out on top.

1931
01:28:56,900 --> 01:28:58,707
- [Brad] Shit dude he is just fucking--

1932
01:28:58,707 --> 01:28:59,880
- Wow it's amazing.

1933
01:28:59,880 --> 01:29:01,240
- Tommy's at the Wild Stance,

1934
01:29:01,240 --> 01:29:04,360
Alex is on the final Bolt Ladder.

1935
01:29:04,360 --> 01:29:06,610
- [Alex] The last pitch is
like the full glorious sprint

1936
01:29:06,610 --> 01:29:08,120
to the finish line.

1937
01:29:08,120 --> 01:29:10,533
It's completely exposed,
totally outrageous.

1938
01:29:11,440 --> 01:29:14,560
You're hand over handing
bolts, you're like (grunts),

1939
01:29:14,560 --> 01:29:17,160
just leave it all on the
table, punch it to the top.

1940
01:29:19,220 --> 01:29:20,735
It feels so heroic.

1941
01:29:20,735 --> 01:29:24,040
(spectators cheering)

1942
01:29:24,040 --> 01:29:26,540
- Can't tell me, I'm running
to the top, get some!

1943
01:29:27,924 --> 01:29:29,350
(spectators cheering)

1944
01:29:29,350 --> 01:29:31,320
- I wasn't checking my watch at all

1945
01:29:31,320 --> 01:29:34,207
I was just trying to go as
fast as I physically can.

1946
01:29:35,220 --> 01:29:36,980
- [Alex] I'm just running
uphill with a bunch of weight

1947
01:29:36,980 --> 01:29:39,160
hanging off me and then the
goal is just to pull the rope

1948
01:29:39,160 --> 01:29:41,137
as tight as you can and
then start pulling on Tommy.

1949
01:29:41,137 --> 01:29:41,970
Yo Tommy!

1950
01:29:43,500 --> 01:29:46,410
(Alex breathing heavily)

1951
01:29:46,410 --> 01:29:47,243
Come on Tommy!

1952
01:29:48,200 --> 01:29:50,994
- I see him, he's pulling,
hand over handing.

1953
01:29:50,994 --> 01:29:51,975
- [Rebecca] Let me see.

1954
01:29:51,975 --> 01:29:52,808
- [Sanni] Come on Tommy!

1955
01:29:52,808 --> 01:29:54,500
- The tree is in sight, I'm just,

1956
01:29:54,500 --> 01:29:57,140
I'm running up the final
slabs as fast as I can.

1957
01:29:57,140 --> 01:29:58,064
- [Alex] Come on Tommy!

1958
01:29:58,064 --> 01:30:00,103
- All of a sudden I just
get jerked to a halt.

1959
01:30:05,710 --> 01:30:09,010
I just started panicking,
I was like, oh no!

1960
01:30:09,010 --> 01:30:10,160
- [Alex] Come on Tommy!

1961
01:30:12,960 --> 01:30:15,780
- And again I had to
friggin untie the rope

1962
01:30:15,780 --> 01:30:18,470
and it probably took me like
two or three times as long

1963
01:30:18,470 --> 01:30:20,050
to untie as it should have.

1964
01:30:23,210 --> 01:30:24,283
- [Alex] Come on Tommy!

1965
01:30:25,503 --> 01:30:28,773
- Finally got it untied
and ran to the tree.

1966
01:30:34,400 --> 01:30:35,400
- [Alex] Yeah buddy!

1967
01:30:38,990 --> 01:30:40,620
- [Austin] When Tommy ran up
to the tree without the rope

1968
01:30:40,620 --> 01:30:42,093
I was like that's unorthodox.

1969
01:30:44,084 --> 01:30:46,010
- [Alex] Did you just untie at the end?

1970
01:30:46,010 --> 01:30:47,897
- Yeah my rope got caught.

1971
01:30:47,897 --> 01:30:49,574
- [Alex] Well, good call

1972
01:30:49,574 --> 01:30:51,770
- I didn't even really
realize what had happened.

1973
01:30:51,770 --> 01:30:53,853
Alex just kind of casually walks back.

1974
01:30:54,780 --> 01:30:56,370
Two, 10, 14.

1975
01:30:56,370 --> 01:30:57,203
- Two, 10, 14.

1976
01:30:57,203 --> 01:31:00,184
(spectators cheering)

1977
01:31:00,184 --> 01:31:01,101
- Hi daddy!

1978
01:31:04,100 --> 01:31:05,010
- Say good job daddy!

1979
01:31:05,010 --> 01:31:06,980
He's standing on top.

1980
01:31:06,980 --> 01:31:08,573
- Well man, nice dude.
- boom.

1981
01:31:09,697 --> 01:31:10,590
That felt good.

1982
01:31:10,590 --> 01:31:11,423
- Yeah, yeah.

1983
01:31:11,423 --> 01:31:12,990
- It still wasn't quite perfect though.

1984
01:31:12,990 --> 01:31:14,307
- Yeah, I was like-

1985
01:31:14,307 --> 01:31:16,773
- Got stuck several times
and that was kinda like uh.

1986
01:31:16,773 --> 01:31:18,959
- That was good though, we got the record.

1987
01:31:18,959 --> 01:31:20,068
- You got it back!

1988
01:31:20,068 --> 01:31:21,310
- Nice work.

1989
01:31:21,310 --> 01:31:22,770
That was sick.

1990
01:31:22,770 --> 01:31:25,969
- Yeah, we got it by, kind of a lot.

1991
01:31:25,969 --> 01:31:26,802
- Almost 10 minutes.

1992
01:31:26,802 --> 01:31:27,715
- Yeah.
- Yeah.

1993
01:31:27,715 --> 01:31:28,755
Yeah, legit.

1994
01:31:28,755 --> 01:31:30,505
Now we just gotta shave 10 more.

1995
01:31:30,505 --> 01:31:31,605
- Oh Jesus.

1996
01:31:31,605 --> 01:31:33,242
- That definitely hurt a lot more.

1997
01:31:33,242 --> 01:31:35,290
(gentle music)

1998
01:31:35,290 --> 01:31:38,016
Breaking somebodies record is fun,

1999
01:31:38,016 --> 01:31:40,810
it's nice to one up your
friends or whatever.

2000
01:31:40,810 --> 01:31:42,140
Brad's calling.

2001
01:31:42,140 --> 01:31:42,973
- [Tommy] Oh nice.

2002
01:31:42,973 --> 01:31:44,350
- Brad Gobright.

2003
01:31:44,350 --> 01:31:46,980
- Congratulations, you did it!

2004
01:31:46,980 --> 01:31:49,100
- Yo, we took it, we took it,

2005
01:31:49,100 --> 01:31:53,290
but not quite by enough for
it to be out of the question

2006
01:31:53,290 --> 01:31:54,200
for you guys though you know?

2007
01:31:54,200 --> 01:31:55,500
We might have to go again.

2008
01:31:56,990 --> 01:31:59,150
But the idea is that you're
seeking out that feeling

2009
01:31:59,150 --> 01:32:00,620
of perfection where they're like,

2010
01:32:00,620 --> 01:32:03,650
this climb went as well
as any climb can go

2011
01:32:03,650 --> 01:32:05,690
and so when we got to the top in two, 10,

2012
01:32:05,690 --> 01:32:07,350
we're like oh that felt really good

2013
01:32:07,350 --> 01:32:11,490
and we did it pretty quickly
but it wasn't quite perfect.

2014
01:32:11,490 --> 01:32:13,450
- Yeah I think both of
us were immediately like,

2015
01:32:13,450 --> 01:32:17,390
oh we can do better than that,
we're not done with this.

2016
01:32:17,390 --> 01:32:19,500
Does seem possible to go faster.

2017
01:32:19,500 --> 01:32:21,550
- Yeah I mean we could for
sure shave 10 minutes off that.

2018
01:32:21,550 --> 01:32:23,451
- I feel like we're just
getting close to our potential

2019
01:32:23,451 --> 01:32:27,693
at this point so that two
hour mark is very enticing.

2020
01:32:30,050 --> 01:32:33,050
We just decided that we should keep going,

2021
01:32:33,050 --> 01:32:34,793
try and do it in under two hours.

2022
01:32:36,450 --> 01:32:38,730
- You know I think any reasonable person

2023
01:32:38,730 --> 01:32:42,390
would break The Nose speed
record and hang up their rack

2024
01:32:42,390 --> 01:32:46,000
and they'd be done but Tommy and Alex

2025
01:32:46,000 --> 01:32:48,230
they wanted to break two hours.

2026
01:32:48,230 --> 01:32:50,560
It's kind of this mythical time

2027
01:32:50,560 --> 01:32:51,770
that people have wondered about like,

2028
01:32:51,770 --> 01:32:53,570
oh is it even possible?

2029
01:32:53,570 --> 01:32:55,360
- My thought is that if we break two hours

2030
01:32:55,360 --> 01:32:57,830
that'll be getting pretty
close to this is perfect,

2031
01:32:57,830 --> 01:32:59,080
like this is the best that we can do.

2032
01:32:59,080 --> 01:33:01,660
- It's gonna be real hard,
like this is gonna hurt

2033
01:33:01,660 --> 01:33:03,160
but we're gonna try again
tomorrow and who knows?

2034
01:33:03,160 --> 01:33:06,693
Maybe we'll just cut
off another 10 minutes.

2035
01:33:07,764 --> 01:33:10,575
- [Austin] Yeah fellas!

2036
01:33:10,575 --> 01:33:11,408
- Yeah!

2037
01:33:12,990 --> 01:33:14,770
Hey, what's happening?

2038
01:33:14,770 --> 01:33:16,523
How's it goin buddy?

2039
01:33:17,489 --> 01:33:18,322
- The baby's sleeping.

2040
01:33:18,322 --> 01:33:19,213
- Oh sorry.

2041
01:33:19,213 --> 01:33:22,263
- But you did good, nice job.

2042
01:33:22,263 --> 01:33:23,589
- Yo Hans, what happened?

2043
01:33:23,589 --> 01:33:25,397
(everyone laughing)

2044
01:33:25,397 --> 01:33:28,330
- Don't insult the history book here.

2045
01:33:28,330 --> 01:33:31,080
Seven hour, six hour, and five hour mark

2046
01:33:31,080 --> 01:33:34,920
all broken by Peter
Croft and Dave Schultz.

2047
01:33:34,920 --> 01:33:38,940
Dean Potter and Timmy O'Neill
broke the four hour mark,

2048
01:33:38,940 --> 01:33:41,780
Yuji and Hans broke the three hour mark,

2049
01:33:41,780 --> 01:33:46,202
Alex hasn't broken an hour
marks, oh that's gotta hurt.

2050
01:33:46,202 --> 01:33:48,785
(all laughing)

2051
01:33:49,687 --> 01:33:51,293
- That's fair, yeah.

2052
01:33:52,360 --> 01:33:53,714
- [Tommy] So yeah, go again tomorrow?

2053
01:33:53,714 --> 01:33:54,881
- [Alex] Yeah.

2054
01:33:58,200 --> 01:34:00,840
- Two experienced climbers
died when they plummeted off

2055
01:34:00,840 --> 01:34:02,777
El Capitan in Yosemite this morning.

2056
01:34:02,777 --> 01:34:04,840
- [Female Reporter] The two
climbers were attempting El Cap

2057
01:34:04,840 --> 01:34:06,570
when something went horribly wrong.

2058
01:34:06,570 --> 01:34:09,240
The climbers, identified
as 46 year old Jason Wells

2059
01:34:09,240 --> 01:34:13,510
of Boulder, Colorado and 42
year, a Tim Klein from Palmdale.

2060
01:34:13,510 --> 01:34:15,450
Rangers still figuring out just how

2061
01:34:15,450 --> 01:34:17,323
these climbers fell Saturday.

2062
01:34:20,210 --> 01:34:21,510
- [Alex] The next morning
we were getting ready

2063
01:34:21,510 --> 01:34:23,200
for another attempt on The Nose

2064
01:34:23,200 --> 01:34:26,470
and we found out there
was an accident on El Cap.

2065
01:34:26,470 --> 01:34:29,210
Two super experienced
climbers, Jason and Tim,

2066
01:34:29,210 --> 01:34:32,130
they were using speed climbing
tactics on another route

2067
01:34:32,130 --> 01:34:35,130
call the Salathe which is
just to the left of The Nose.

2068
01:34:35,130 --> 01:34:37,040
It's unclear exactly what happened

2069
01:34:37,040 --> 01:34:39,113
but somehow fell off the wall.

2070
01:34:40,180 --> 01:34:42,053
It was like, woof, pretty heavy.

2071
01:34:42,972 --> 01:34:44,500
An accident like this, is you never know

2072
01:34:44,500 --> 01:34:46,980
if maybe they did have
gear and maybe it pulled

2073
01:34:46,980 --> 01:34:49,510
or maybe a rock rolled, cut the rope,

2074
01:34:49,510 --> 01:34:50,740
you know what I mean,
there's so many variables.

2075
01:34:50,740 --> 01:34:52,770
I mean it definitely makes you pause

2076
01:34:52,770 --> 01:34:54,710
and think about your choices a little bit.

2077
01:34:54,710 --> 01:34:57,349
- Are you guys thinking
you're gonna climb tomorrow?

2078
01:34:57,349 --> 01:34:58,450
- I don't know.

2079
01:34:58,450 --> 01:35:00,570
But the reality is, if
you're speed climbing

2080
01:35:00,570 --> 01:35:02,520
on The Nose you've already thought about

2081
01:35:02,520 --> 01:35:04,170
how an accident could occur,

2082
01:35:04,170 --> 01:35:06,370
what it would be like to fall off.

2083
01:35:06,370 --> 01:35:08,450
You're already doing your
absolute best to minimize

2084
01:35:08,450 --> 01:35:10,390
the chance of that happening.

2085
01:35:10,390 --> 01:35:12,530
- Like there's always an
anchor, we're always at least--

2086
01:35:12,530 --> 01:35:14,580
- [Alex] I think that for
Tommy the bigger challenge

2087
01:35:14,580 --> 01:35:16,490
is his obligation to his family

2088
01:35:16,490 --> 01:35:18,850
and making sure the
Becca feels comfortable

2089
01:35:18,850 --> 01:35:19,840
with his decision making.

2090
01:35:19,840 --> 01:35:20,687
- It's just the kind of
thing where it's like

2091
01:35:20,687 --> 01:35:22,730
I want a guarantee but
there's no guarantee

2092
01:35:22,730 --> 01:35:27,730
so I just have to trust
you guys but that's scary.

2093
01:35:28,640 --> 01:35:29,650
- I was feeling a little bit wigged

2094
01:35:29,650 --> 01:35:32,080
about just raging tomorrow.

2095
01:35:32,080 --> 01:35:33,490
- Yeah making sure there's no gear--

2096
01:35:33,490 --> 01:35:36,100
- Maybe take a second
look at those fixings.

2097
01:35:36,100 --> 01:35:39,070
So we decided to go and
take it a little more chill.

2098
01:35:39,070 --> 01:35:41,670
Mostly to just test out the psyche.

2099
01:35:41,670 --> 01:35:43,605
To go sub two I feel like
you just gotta be like,

2100
01:35:43,605 --> 01:35:47,250
(grunts) so stoked and this
definitely took the wind

2101
01:35:47,250 --> 01:35:48,450
out of the sails for me.

2102
01:35:51,030 --> 01:35:56,030
We went back up, taking the
time to reanalyze everything.

2103
01:35:57,630 --> 01:36:00,323
It felt really solid to me, it felt safe.

2104
01:36:02,500 --> 01:36:04,550
It's just a question of how to go faster.

2105
01:36:07,780 --> 01:36:11,673
The one place I know I can save
some time is the Boot Flake.

2106
01:36:15,240 --> 01:36:18,055
We'll go faster if I just skip that piece.

2107
01:36:18,055 --> 01:36:20,805
(birds chirping)

2108
01:36:23,230 --> 01:36:27,404
But that's a line I'm
just not willing to cross.

2109
01:36:27,404 --> 01:36:30,571
(slow dramatic music)

2110
01:36:36,630 --> 01:36:38,750
Yeah I thought that was fun
today, I didn't feel wigged,

2111
01:36:38,750 --> 01:36:39,583
it felt super fun.

2112
01:36:39,583 --> 01:36:40,740
- That was so fun.

2113
01:36:40,740 --> 01:36:43,129
I'm glad that we retouched
all the safety stuff

2114
01:36:43,129 --> 01:36:44,450
I think it's totally fine.

2115
01:36:44,450 --> 01:36:45,283
- Yeah.

2116
01:36:46,240 --> 01:36:49,650
- So I would have to shave
another five off the bottom?

2117
01:36:49,650 --> 01:36:50,483
- [Alex] Yeah.

2118
01:36:51,860 --> 01:36:56,170
- The last piece of the
puzzle was how to go faster

2119
01:36:56,170 --> 01:36:57,483
on that bottom section.

2120
01:36:59,360 --> 01:37:03,227
I set up a self belay,
rehearsed every move

2121
01:37:03,227 --> 01:37:06,163
so that I could it totally flawlessly.

2122
01:37:11,470 --> 01:37:13,593
If I can shave that five minutes,

2123
01:37:14,770 --> 01:37:16,770
I'd be holding up my end of the bargain.

2124
01:37:19,849 --> 01:37:21,002
- Good morning.

2125
01:37:21,002 --> 01:37:22,075
- [Other Climbers] Good morning.

2126
01:37:22,075 --> 01:37:23,165
- [Rock Climber] Congratulations.

2127
01:37:23,165 --> 01:37:24,333
- Oh thanks.

2128
01:37:24,333 --> 01:37:25,453
Goin again today.

2129
01:37:28,240 --> 01:37:30,486
- Let's say today is gonna
be a little less casual.

2130
01:37:30,486 --> 01:37:33,236
(birds chirping)

2131
01:37:41,190 --> 01:37:42,490
- [Alex] Nice and relaxed.

2132
01:37:43,680 --> 01:37:44,513
- [Tommy] Okay ready.

2133
01:37:44,513 --> 01:37:45,531
- [Alex] Yup.

2134
01:37:45,531 --> 01:37:46,364
(watch beeps)

2135
01:37:46,364 --> 01:37:49,114
(dramatic music)

2136
01:37:49,950 --> 01:37:51,072
- [Alex] Whoa Tommy.

2137
01:37:51,072 --> 01:37:54,120
(dramatic music)

2138
01:37:54,120 --> 01:37:55,963
Tommy was charging to Sickle.

2139
01:37:57,560 --> 01:37:58,910
I mean most people spend the whole day

2140
01:37:58,910 --> 01:37:59,810
getting to Sickle.

2141
01:38:01,020 --> 01:38:02,480
Wow, 11, 06.

2142
01:38:02,480 --> 01:38:03,750
- [Tommy] Holy shit.

2143
01:38:03,750 --> 01:38:05,210
- [Alex] And there goes
Tommy blitzing to Sickle

2144
01:38:05,210 --> 01:38:07,893
in 11 minutes, it's completely outrageous.

2145
01:38:09,140 --> 01:38:10,502
Get it, get it, get it.

2146
01:38:10,502 --> 01:38:13,252
(dramatic music)

2147
01:38:28,803 --> 01:38:32,303
(music drowns out speech)

2148
01:38:33,460 --> 01:38:34,505
- [Alex] Where you guys from?

2149
01:38:34,505 --> 01:38:38,005
(music drowns out speech)

2150
01:38:44,687 --> 01:38:45,810
- [Tommy] I'm on the Bolt!

2151
01:38:45,810 --> 01:38:47,987
- [Alex] Okay I have you on set.

2152
01:38:47,987 --> 01:38:49,603
You're on normal belay.

2153
01:38:51,007 --> 01:38:53,040
(music drowns out speech)

2154
01:38:53,040 --> 01:38:55,010
- [Alex] Man that was really fast, 56.

2155
01:38:55,010 --> 01:38:56,700
- [Tommy] Wow, five minutes faster.

2156
01:38:56,700 --> 01:38:57,650
- [Alex] Nice work!

2157
01:38:58,686 --> 01:38:59,870
Okay your line's fixed!

2158
01:38:59,870 --> 01:39:01,760
Tommy puts in an amazing effort

2159
01:39:01,760 --> 01:39:03,600
and puts us in a position to succeed

2160
01:39:03,600 --> 01:39:05,260
and I'm obligated to do my best

2161
01:39:05,260 --> 01:39:07,136
to see us through to the end.

2162
01:39:07,136 --> 01:39:09,886
(dramatic music)

2163
01:39:14,130 --> 01:39:15,440
- [Tommy] Yeah AleX!

2164
01:39:15,440 --> 01:39:16,963
Crushing dude!

2165
01:39:16,963 --> 01:39:19,713
(dramatic music)

2166
01:39:35,360 --> 01:39:40,170
Alex is rocketing up these
steep amazing pitches

2167
01:39:40,170 --> 01:39:42,883
2500 feet off the ground.

2168
01:39:44,200 --> 01:39:46,623
God he's just so in his element.

2169
01:39:51,990 --> 01:39:56,400
Seeing him climbing with
absolute grace and confidence

2170
01:39:56,400 --> 01:39:58,200
I mean that's perfection.

2171
01:40:07,550 --> 01:40:10,300
(hooks rattling)

2172
01:40:28,886 --> 01:40:31,553
(hook clipping)

2173
01:40:35,462 --> 01:40:38,212
(hooks rattling)

2174
01:40:58,800 --> 01:40:59,633
Yeah Alex!

2175
01:40:59,633 --> 01:41:01,150
- [Alex] All right, fixed.

2176
01:41:01,150 --> 01:41:02,560
- [Tommy] Climbing with him up there

2177
01:41:02,560 --> 01:41:06,720
I get to not only witness but
to be part of that mastery.

2178
01:41:08,420 --> 01:41:09,663
- [Alex] I'm on top Tommy!

2179
01:41:09,663 --> 01:41:10,913
- [Tommy] Okay!

2180
01:41:14,797 --> 01:41:19,570
And do something together,
it feels, transcendent.

2181
01:41:19,570 --> 01:41:20,403
- Come on Tommy!

2182
01:41:21,490 --> 01:41:24,413
Come on, go fast!

2183
01:41:26,488 --> 01:41:28,214
Yeah Tommy come on!

2184
01:41:28,214 --> 01:41:31,714
(Tommy breathing heavily)

2185
01:41:32,585 --> 01:41:35,478
Yeah, yeah Tommy!

2186
01:41:35,478 --> 01:41:36,685
- We do it?

2187
01:41:36,685 --> 01:41:37,799
- [Alex] Oh yeah.

2188
01:41:37,799 --> 01:41:41,014
(Tommy cheers)

2189
01:41:41,014 --> 01:41:46,014
- Oh my God.

2190
01:41:48,151 --> 01:41:48,984
Oh my God.

2191
01:41:49,901 --> 01:41:52,625
(Tommy breathing heavily)

2192
01:41:52,625 --> 01:41:55,228
(Tommy grunts)

2193
01:41:55,228 --> 01:41:56,061
- What do we got?

2194
01:41:56,061 --> 01:41:57,397
- I'll come show you.

2195
01:41:57,397 --> 01:42:00,200
(Tommy grunts)

2196
01:42:00,200 --> 01:42:01,663
- Oh that was so sick dude.

2197
01:42:03,480 --> 01:42:04,313
Good work.

2198
01:42:08,540 --> 01:42:09,540
- Fuck yeah.

2199
01:42:11,803 --> 01:42:12,636
Yeah!

2200
01:42:14,190 --> 01:42:17,640
Dude, one, 58, one, 58, 07.

2201
01:42:17,640 --> 01:42:18,610
- Whoa!

2202
01:42:18,610 --> 01:42:20,194
- Yeah!
- Killed it!

2203
01:42:20,194 --> 01:42:22,720
Yeah, sick.

2204
01:42:22,720 --> 01:42:23,760
- Sick.

2205
01:42:23,760 --> 01:42:25,690
- Wow beat it by two minutes.

2206
01:42:25,690 --> 01:42:27,381
- Yeah, let's never do this again.

2207
01:42:27,381 --> 01:42:28,480
(Tommy laughs)

2208
01:42:28,480 --> 01:42:30,413
- Good work dude, you were charging.

2209
01:42:31,340 --> 01:42:34,880
I actually smelled burning
rubber at one point

2210
01:42:34,880 --> 01:42:36,964
and I was like that's appropriate.

2211
01:42:36,964 --> 01:42:37,970
- [Rebecca On Phone] Hello?

2212
01:42:37,970 --> 01:42:38,803
- Hey baby.

2213
01:42:39,763 --> 01:42:40,596
- [Rebecca On Phone] You did it!

2214
01:42:40,596 --> 01:42:41,429
- We did it!

2215
01:42:41,429 --> 01:42:42,930
- [Rebecca On Phone] Come
on, are you guys psyched?

2216
01:42:42,930 --> 01:42:43,763
- Yeah.

2217
01:42:43,763 --> 01:42:45,030
- The thing is 'cause
if we kept goin forever

2218
01:42:45,030 --> 01:42:47,270
I bet we could go to like
one, 45 or something but--

2219
01:42:47,270 --> 01:42:49,112
- Oh God, that sounds real painful.

2220
01:42:49,112 --> 01:42:50,470
- [Rebecca On Phone] We
don't need to do that.

2221
01:42:50,470 --> 01:42:51,720
- Yeah no I don't wanna do that.

2222
01:42:51,720 --> 01:42:54,156
- Alex said he felt emotional
when he felt the timer.

2223
01:42:54,156 --> 01:42:56,020
- [Rebecca On Phone]
Are you gonna cry Alex?

2224
01:42:56,020 --> 01:42:57,502
- No no, the feeling has past,

2225
01:42:57,502 --> 01:42:58,912
I already feel like we kinda sucked

2226
01:42:58,912 --> 01:43:00,014
and we should of done better.

2227
01:43:00,014 --> 01:43:00,847
- [Tommy] Yeah.

2228
01:43:00,847 --> 01:43:01,680
- [Rebecca On Phone] Well I'd be crying

2229
01:43:01,680 --> 01:43:03,124
if you guys didn't do it right now.

2230
01:43:03,124 --> 01:43:04,499
(both laughing)

2231
01:43:04,499 --> 01:43:05,650
- Yup.

2232
01:43:05,650 --> 01:43:06,483
- [Tommy] Yo Hans.

2233
01:43:06,483 --> 01:43:07,880
- [Hans On Phone] Congratulations guys.

2234
01:43:07,880 --> 01:43:08,713
- [Alex] Oh you saw it?

2235
01:43:08,713 --> 01:43:09,546
- Thank you.
- Yeah thanks.

2236
01:43:09,546 --> 01:43:10,850
- Pretty exciting huh?

2237
01:43:10,850 --> 01:43:12,180
- [Hans On Phone] Are you guys done?

2238
01:43:12,180 --> 01:43:13,920
- [Both In Unison] Yeah
we're done, we're good.

2239
01:43:13,920 --> 01:43:16,170
- One, 58, 07, we're calling it good.

2240
01:43:16,170 --> 01:43:18,502
- Yeah yeah, I'm psyched with that.

2241
01:43:18,502 --> 01:43:19,610
- [Hans On Phone] Hold on, hold on.

2242
01:43:19,610 --> 01:43:21,930
One, 58, 07 right?

2243
01:43:21,930 --> 01:43:23,500
- Yup yup.

2244
01:43:23,500 --> 01:43:24,840
- [Hans On Phone] Okay
that's the official time

2245
01:43:24,840 --> 01:43:25,760
that we'll go with.

2246
01:43:25,760 --> 01:43:27,686
- Yeah that's the official time.

2247
01:43:27,686 --> 01:43:31,420
You can go ahead and etch that into stone,

2248
01:43:31,420 --> 01:43:32,415
that's the official time.

2249
01:43:32,415 --> 01:43:35,165
(dramatic music)

2250
01:44:00,750 --> 01:44:02,849
- That probably knocks Brad
and Jim out of the game.

2251
01:44:02,849 --> 01:44:04,570
(Tommy laughs)

2252
01:44:04,570 --> 01:44:05,930
- That was the goal all along.

2253
01:44:05,930 --> 01:44:07,390
- Yeah exactly.

2254
01:44:07,390 --> 01:44:09,360
Come on who cares about breaking two,

2255
01:44:09,360 --> 01:44:11,762
let's just break Brads spirit.

2256
01:44:11,762 --> 01:44:14,152
(Tommy laughs)

2257
01:44:14,152 --> 01:44:15,789
Just kidding Brad.

2258
01:44:15,789 --> 01:44:18,372
(Tommy laughs)

2259
01:44:38,389 --> 01:44:40,806
(slow music)